Best Way to Do a Layover at CPH (Review #2: Mash)

19 April 2024

I was excited to start my very crazy, almost dizzying trip around the Nordics. I planned this trip when the nearly-bankrupt SAS offered an almost too-cheap-to-believe roundtrip to Europe, albeit with some twists. It was cheaper for some reason to have extra connections from/to Copenhagen before the transatlantic flight…so of course I took advantage of it.

I arrived at CPH after a relatively good red-eye flight. I had paid for a better seat, and the aisle bulkhead seat was the best one on the plane by far. Consider it was cheaper than a checked bag, that was money well spent.

I had about 3 hours at CPH before my connection, and we zapped through Schengen very quickly. So I had some time, and I headed to my usual at CPH, Mash. I’ve dropped in on many connections over the years since first doing so in 2014, enjoying their excellent Danish ribeye.

Alas I was a little early for their 12 midday opening, so I went to buy a discounted thin coat from shops trying to unload them as spring is here. I see in my itinerary some weather that may be worse than I had anticipated (I didn’t bring a jacket with me), so I bought one that was conveniently 50% off.

I headed up to Mash and relaxed with a much-appreciated cocktail overlooking the bustling terminal around the B gates entryway. I usually don’t like to drink or eat before a flight, but the next one is a quick one. Then not long after the good stuff arrived.

Yep, what I always get here, the excellent Danish ribeye. Lovely flavours, good temperature. Considering the plague of overcooked beef I’ve had in the US recently from “top” steakhouses, this was very welcomed!

A side of mushrooms, which is a change from my usual jalapeños, but it worked very well. A lovely lunch to have when you have a little time, and you almost forget you’re in an airport. Probably one of few places in an airport anywhere in the world I would be happy to eat at.

My flight is not far, so I decided to enjoy a last tipple and even a dessert…

Far bigger from what I usually have (especially as a non-dessert person), but this is the start of what should be a very fun trip, so i went with this nice combo. I was very happy and fuelled up for the second flight, and I thanked my excellent servers and walked down the stairs towards my gate for Bergen. What a great start!

Or was it? To be continued…

Mash
Københavns Lufthavn
Terminal 2
Kastrup, Danmark

Review: Brazen Open Kitchen

12 March 2022

My stress level has been at an all-time high, with so much going on. Ukraine breaks my heart and hurts my soul on a minute-by-minute basis. Whether it’s me studying Ukrainian at college in 1994 or playing a small but symbolic role in Estonian-Ukrainian relations in 1996, the country — it’s culture, language, traditions and people — have always remained an important part of what makes me tick. And I am ticked off beyond any normal sense of the word…

Throw in work stress from my day job, I needed to detach myself for a day. And yes, I do count my blessings I can escape from all this for 36 hours unlike my friends in Kyiv, Kharkiv and elsewhere…

I decided to just head north in my car, driving smaller state highways and other roads, avoiding traffic on an extremely cold day. That means black ice at points, but still better than the annoyance of the Interstate system. I snaked north through the north-west corner of Illinois, jutted into Wisconsin for a bit, and eventually crossed the Mississippi River and arrived in Dubuque, Iowa.

It’s been a few years since I’ve been here, but it’s nice to be in a most hilly part of stereotypically flat Iowa. I found my quirky but intriguing B&B, the historic Richards House. I’m usually not a big fan of B&Bs, since I like privacy and don’t eat breakfast. But this place had the best location and seems very unique. And I was right. The proprietress was a gem.

I got settled in and strolled the short distance into downtown. I parked myself at a bar called Hops & Rye, and had a wonderful time chatting with the staff and owner. The nicest people, good drinks, what else can you ask for?

But I had a dinner reservation so I headed out for the short walk to Brazen Open Kitchen. It got some attention recently with a James Beard semi-final designation…and if you’re a regular reader you know I’m not a fan of JB-hyped places.

I happily took a bar seat so they can give away my two-top on a busy Saturday night. Good, because lots of folks were waiting on tables. I enjoy sitting at the bar. A good cocktail in hand, and it quickly became the continuation of an already good night.

I decided on having something I usually don’t do at chef-driven places, but it looked so good on photos so I went with it. A half-bottle of red appeared, and my dinner arrived…

An excellent ribeye, thick and flavourful, cooked absolutely perfectly. High quality meat, wonderful execution, what else can you ask for?

It was extremely filling, so I just enjoyed a closing cocktail before I thanked the crew and headed out. For now, my James Beard curse has been broken…well, until another over-hyped place disappoint me down the road, of course. But Brazen is a solid kitchen that’s for sure, with friendly service and a wonderful bunch of fellow customers to chat with as well.

I would very much recommend not just Brazen, but Dubuque in general. It’s such an amazingly friendly town. If you ever want the stereotypical “Midwestern nice” town, this is it. And do check out Richards House and Hops & Rye for excellent accommodations and drinks.

Thanks, Dubuque, it was exactly what I needed! Now back to the distressing reality…

Brazen Open Kitchen
955 Washington Street #101
Dubuque, Iowa

* Of course I returned to Hops & Rye for several rounds more, with some excellent cocktails courtesy of the wonderful Allie.

** And of course I had a massive hangover, not helped by losing an hour (damn that daylight savings time…), but helped by a ridiculously huge and excellent breakfast at The Richards House. Mushroom quiche and poached pear to start, what?