17 August 2018
I made my way to Medellín after a frustrating series of flights that involved South Florida (less so) and Panama (more so). What a crap airport Tocumen is…a bloody glorified bus stop. Wait, not even glorified. Ugh… Mess of a hotel, but I was looking forward to dinner.
I had found La Chagra about a year ago by accident when I started looking at heading back to South America and wanted to revisit Colombia. Their philosophy and cuisine seemed quite interesting, focusing on the culture and plight of the natives of the Amazon. For all the enticing pictures they posted on Instagram (they don’t have a website, which really should be rectified), I was intrigued.
I was greeted and shown to my table, and my experience was about to begin. It’s not just an evening for dining, but it’s the whole experience… After I chose to go with the full tasting menu — la Pasión Amazónica — they brought an aromatic hand towel and then an interesting wee apertif…
It’s aged whiskey infused with chuchuhuaza, as well as honey, cinnamon and other herbs. Interesting to say the least. Then my drink arrived, a mojito made with some unique local ingredients…
Tasty, though a little thick at points due to the use of exotic fruits. Then the next dish, a wee drink made from chontaduro, a local palm, with a cracker topped by the head of the mojojoy (larva of the palm weevil).
Pretty interesting, the flavour of the soup helped along the rather bland cracker. But then we have the interesting next dish that comes with all the dry ice effect…
Yep, it’s the rest of that mojojoy, and it was meaty and tasty — as it was also partly stuffed with pirarucu (which features prominently in the cuisine here). Then my excellent server invites me into the inside (my table was on the balcony) to show me photos on the wall of the deforestation of the Amazon and how it damages the ecosystem of not just the region, but the entire continent. As I mentioned, this was an experience, and this tied into the next dish.
The farina is sauteed in pirarucu butter, with a touch of onion and coconut, all topped by some tomatoes. Really nicer than you’d expect. Then we have a little tapioca cracker with smoked pirarucu and amazonian peppers.
Really tasty, the mild pepper working with the smoked fish very well. As my drink was done, they brought out my second drink…a local take on the gin and tonic…
Pretty nice, again using local exotic fruits to accentuate this drink. Then a larger dish appears with more smoke…
The 2 breaded green plantain balls were not bad, but the smoked pork wrapped in a local leafy veg was quite delicious. So far this meal has been interesting — and rather quick. Dishes are coming out in matter of minutes after I was done, so that’s good. Next up, pork belly.
Done as a protest against fracking in the Amazon, this pork belly with borojó was absolutely fantastic. The sauce is like a better version of hoisin, and they got a winner here. The side is a rice ball with coriander and basil, a nice accompaniment. Best item of the night so far. No let up, next up is a tribute to local vegetables called the “exhausted jungle”…
A really nice set of items, but the beets were the best. Lovely bacuri vinaigrette here, bringing much out of the vegetables. Good stuff. Then we move into the bigger items, first up is the pirarucu roasted in butter…
Unfortunately it was way overcooked, and really ruined. A slip-up by the kitchen here. I know Chef Juan Santiago Gallego was doing a special event in Cartagena, but his team should have had this… Oh well. Drink was empty, so I took their rec for the third (and last) and it was their local take on the caipirinha…
Not bad, the drinks have been very unique to say the least. Then the next dish again stays with the pirarucu — this time stuffed baby pirarucu cooked in a bijao leaf.
Far better than the previous item, but was still somewhat overcooked. I wonder if they had timed things wrong with me as a single diner… In any case, that was the last savoury item as the next item was a digestive…
It’s made of cachaça, camu camu, and lemon. Not bad. Then we start the desserts, first with their take on the chocolate cake…
Intriguing, as the chocolate is mixed with sacha mani for texture, amongst other things.
On the side, the ice cream is made from copoasu, which addes to the intrigue, as it has a “fruity chocolate” taste to it. A really excellent dessert! Then as a final item, a bitter chocolate truffle…
Very tasty, as it has a myriad of additions that we’ve visited throughout the dinner, from copoasu to chuchuhuaza, making it a perfect way to wind this experience down. But it’s not over, as they have an optional item to try…
It’s been controversial from what I’ve read online, but I was game… It’s 2 sets of powders in those turtle figurines…
Well, it’s tobacco and coca…and one goes under the tongue, one goes up the nose. Nope, not what you think, it’s the exact opposite. The coca first went under the tongue…and in a weird aerosal thing, they push the tobacco up your nose… It’s not for everyone, it didn’t do much for me, but it was all part of the experience, so…
As I said, this was an experience, an enjoyable one as well. Lots of unique Amazon ingredients, and for the most part (except the overcooked pirarucu dishes) cooked well. The belly was the best dish, as was the chocolate cake dessert. But excellent service is the key here, my server JP was extremely articulate and clear in describing not just the dishes, but the inspiration behind each item. Really an educational evening too, what better way to learn than to enjoy good food and drink?
If you are in Medellín, this place is a must. Be a little adventurous, enjoy the full experience. You’ll regret it if you don’t. Don’t just visit this city for the wrong reasons (such as the idiotic Pablo Escobar tours they keep pushing on you), learn something and have a good evening.
Highly recommended.
La Chagra
Carrera 33 #7a24
Medellín, Antioquia, Colombia
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