Review: Dish

23 July 2022

What a terrible sleep. You end up in these hotels and they sometimes look good, but you get a crazy patron in the room above you. This one decided to STOMP ALL NIGHT. At midnight. At 1.30am. At 3am. At 4.15am. I gave up by then, so got to enjoy the Nebraska/Iowa/South Dakota sunrise. Tired, but full of recharged energy, and I headed south-west.

I spent the day snaking through Nebraska, through windy and dirt roads, visiting small towns few have heard of. I eventually rounded out to Grand Island, and started to head back east on smaller highways before arriving in my final destination of the day, Lincoln.

I first visited Lincoln during my first cross-country drive back in 1992, and ironically it’s nearly 30 years to the day that I last did an overnight here in Nebraska’s capital city. I had a few places to visit in town before an earlier dinner tonight at Dish — probably the most interesting restaurant in town.

Parking in the busy downtown area, despite the students being gone (Lincoln is Nebraska’s capital city, but also home to the flagship campus of the University of Nebraska), was very busy — not made any easier by the excess construction. But found a lot nearby and walked through the very warm and thick air to my dining destination. It’s cooled off from the 104F (40C) a little, but not much — and it’s gotten more humid…

I arrived at the door and what? There was a bouncer?

Must be the cutest bouncer, ever. I wish I had some food to feed it, but clearly it knows where to wait when the students are out of town!

I evaded its sad, hungry eyes and headed in. I took a seat at the bar, not wanting to take up a two-top on a busy Saturday night. I relaxed with a cocktail. The bar staff seems to be overwhelmed not from orders, but covering a lot of bar back work. But it was nice and relaxing for patrons, so I was relaxed. I ordered, enjoyed my drink, and soon my first dish arrived.

This is a nice start. The pork pâté is done quite well, delicious with a hint of excess and rustic. I like when pâté is not ultra-refined, when it has the consistency of pet food. The tomatoes brings it home nicely, all going down well with the crackers. An excellent start.

I switched up to a wine and relaxed. The place was nice and busy, and I shifted to let a group of four into the bar — which turns out to not be necessary as they got their table within 5 minutes. Shifted back just in time for my main.

I have to say this is one of the best duck I’ve had in many years. Blows away many a Michelin-starred places. Absolutely tender and rich, cooked perfectly. It’s almost fluffy, not a tinge of that “livery” thing you get from a second of overcooking. With a rich variety of carrots — from pickled to grilled — it adds a wonderful touch to this fabulous dish. A complete winner!

I was in a very good mood, so I decided to look at dessert. I ordered and relaxed with some coffee and rye. Also began chatting with some fellow patrons, which was fun. However, I was a little surprised that at a relatively early hour, when the walk-ins sat down at the bar, they were told the kitchen was no longer taking any orders. Really? On a Saturday night when the place was packed? Wow.

My dessert was a nice combination of three scoops I picked out. The “chocolate xtreme” was nice and rich, with the addition of chocolate cake crumble. The black sesame was okay, but it really made me miss Japan and the intensity of their version. And finally, a cherry lemonade sorbet, which was refreshing. All of this with some rye, which made for a fine way to close this evening.

I wished my fellow bar patrons luck with finding food, and headed out the door. The comedy with that was the only real hitch of the night, but the food was fabulous. This is one excellent kitchen, so I feel bad for those people who didn’t get to enjoy the food from this excellent back of house team.

Still blazing hot as I headed back to my hotel, hoping for a better sleep. Home tomorrow, after another 500+ miles of driving!

Recommended!

Dish
100 East O Street
Lincoln, Nebraska

Review: Table 32

22 July 2022

I’m not sure what got me to take a 550 mile (880km) drive west on Friday morning. We had a day off from the office (wow, a 3-day weekend) so I decided I need some solo thinking time…and the best place to do it away from the house is in my car. So I headed west, getting up at 5am to beat the traffic…

I got into Iowa from Davenport, then went by Iowa City and Grinnell and Ames (why am I stopping at all the college towns?), bypassing Des Moines. Then snaked around various parts of north-central Iowa, including Fort Dodge, before I rolled into my destination at the north-west end of the state, Sioux City. The last time I was here was in the spring of 2017…

I always find places that straddle three states interesting. My hotel was in South Sioux City, which was in Nebraska. I had to run quickly to North Sioux City, which was in South Dakota. But dinner tonight was in Sioux City itself, which is in Iowa, of course.

I had found Table 32 by accident while doing some research, and it looked good. I got there on a still-bright 8pm and took a seat at the bar. Relaxed with a cocktail and looked over the menu. The small plates all look interesting, so I decided to order a pair. I nursed my cocktail and thought, well, the thinking time I needed worked over that 550 mile trek. I sorted some stuff out mentally so it was easier to relax.

Food has arrived, and first up was the calamari. Not bad, a bit too much breading for my liking. But a huge plate, and the thin zucchini and squash strips were useful. But a BIG portion. Then I also had the chislic…

Well, chislic is the quintessential South Dakotan dish, a corruption of the south Russian “shashlik” over a century. Sadly, this Iowa version is a little too healthy, missed out on the artery-clogging aspect of this local treat. I should have got some when I was over in North Sioux City, oh well.

I was in a good mood, and was hungry having not eaten since an early dinner last night. And I wanted to take the veggie parts of the calamari back with me as a snack, so I ordered more food. Relaxed with another drink and soon it came. Oops, too much…

The cheesesteak egg rolls were not very good to be honest. The meat was a mess, with the weirdest texture. But it’s filling. I ended up eating two and putting the rest into the container with my calamari-less veggies.

But this, the Korean BBQ strip, turned out to be the best dish of the night by far. The beef was cooked perfectly, tender and juicy. A misnomer as the sauce was a derivitive of Japanese eel sauce, but it was really good.

I was full and had food to take home, so I just enjoyed a final drink and thanked the friendly staff before I headed out into the muggy and still somewhat bright evening. I think overall this day was a success, from the trek to the feast. A good start to the long weekend!

Table 32
100 South Virginia Street
Sioux City, Iowa

Review: MingHin Cuisine (Chinatown)

4 July 2022

One of the most crappy aspects of living in Peoria is the lack of real Chinese food. On a good day it takes nearly 90 minutes of driving just to get to something remotely genuine, so one of the best things about taking in a few days in Chicago is being able to drop into Chinatown for some food.

It was July 4th, so it was busy. Plus, the horrible news about what had happened up north in Highland Park — where I was just a few weeks earlier — was making things difficult to swallow… I arrived in Chinatown after another extremely busy day around the South Side. I knew Chinatown was not happy either, having endured a shoot-out just a few days earlier. My trek here today involved a violent incident on the Dan Ryan that nearly disabled my car (and a few others near me) — which, sadly, is no longer uncommon.

What happened to the Chicago I used to love visiting? Having visited over 3 dozen times over the decades, it was always one of my favourite places to be. Now I feel trepidation, especially on this hot holiday weekend. I knew I didn’t want to eat in today, so luckily I had ordered ahead at MingHin Cuisine before I got here.

Parked semi-legally and had a bit of a wait, but I got my food and headed out. Fought through some minor traffic out of the city but luckily the Eisenhower was not very busy west-bound, so I got back to my hotel on the quick side. I headed to my room and unpacked my rather oversized order…

I can always take stuff home with me as I head back home tomorrow, so let’s hope some of it keeps. First up, something I always love, shumai.

Simple, nothing special, but good. Not pricey either. In fact, this is so much more affordable than the DC area, and better quality. Next up, a treat I’ve not had in awhile, honey-glazed roasted eel.

Delicious, it’s been ages since I’ve had any eel. Surprisingly decent quality, with the sweet-savoury sauce working pretty well without overwhelming the flesh. I’m pretty happy so far.

Of course I’ve also ordered some larger items, and this was overkill — but enough for breakfast, and probably lunch the next day…

First up was some BBQ pork ribs. It’s basically char-siu rib tips. Tasty, easy to eat. Then the other main was steamed minced pork.

Now this was an excellent rendition. Although without the usual salted fish, this version included some nice herbs to really bring out the flavours of the meat.

And before you ask, I did misfire on the online order. I thought I had ordered one of the chive dishes, but now looking back I forgot to click the quantity of it, so I ordered 0 portions of it. Oops. This ended up being a little meat-centric. But it was a feast, and made a quiet July 4th evening the relaxing one I needed.

Lots of extras to take home tomorrow, hoping it all survives another long trek through Illinois and what has been advertised as a horribly hot and humid day…

Much recommended for eat-in or take-out in Chicago’s too-underestimated Chinatown.

MingHin Cuisine (Chinatown)
2168 South Archer Avenue
Chicago, Illinois

* I did end up enjoying some more of it in the morning before I set off, but sadly the last of it did not survive the journey home in a state I would attempt to consume — as I do have to go into the office tomorrow…

Review: Tryzub Ukrainian Kitchen

3 July 2022

I wasn’t planning on spending as much time in Chicago over this long holiday weekend, but decided to head up there a day early. I had plenty to do, but what I really wanted was to visit Tryzub Ukrainian Kitchen in Ukrainian Village.

It’s been ages since I’ve had proper Ukrainian food in a Ukrainian environment, and I miss it so. Tryzub and other Ukrainian restaurants are not open on Monday (July 4th) so I made the quick decision to shift my travel. Planned everything late Saturday evening into Sunday morning, and was out the door just after 5am with almost no sleep…

A very long day later, I drop into Ukrainian Village. I must say it’s far, far different than it was during my last visit — before the war began in 2014. I am so glad to see all the flags flying, the pride in Ukrainian culture can be seen everywhere. I hate that a horrific war was what it took, but no one will dare question Ukrainian culture’s vitality again.

I sat at the bar during the quiet time before the dinner rush. Relaxed and poured through the menu. I went with a cocktail…it was named Bayraktar, so I had to have it. If you don’t know what a Bayraktar is

Delicious. And after I enjoyed it, I switched to some house-infused horseradish horilka with my snack…

Salo…it’s been so long since I’ve had ones that passes for good. I do like them a little thicker than this, but this was wonderful. Lovely to use those green onions to eat the curling slices like some magical core.

That was good. I almost got a second plate, flashing back to Kyiv several years ago…sigh…

A second cocktail — named Javelina (you can guess the inspiration) — required more food. So I ended up getting one of their party platters, albeit for myself…

It came soon and it was a nice selection of varenyky: sauerkraut & mushroom in spinach (green), potato and onion in tumeric (yellow), beef & peppers in beet (reddish), and pork & plum in carrot (orange). Quite interesting. A little understated, especially with some heavy saucing, but always good with some sour cream.

Oooh, some of the last ones nearly killed me. I had yet another cocktail, the “new fashioned”… They were delicious and refreshing. BTW here are the three in order…

Was nice to chat with my bartender from Sumy. He certainly got a kick out of my Instagram tribute to John Deere tractors

However, I was running on 3hrs of sleep for the past two nights so I was starting to run low on energy. I ordered a closing treat — a shot named “Glory to Ukraine” that appropriately layered blue curacao with vanilla liqueur. Forgot to take a photo…

I got it, toasted “слава Україні!” to my fellow patrons and staff, and immediately received the “героям слава!” reply from everyone. This made my heart warm and my eyes watery…and my blood boiling…

I thanked them and headed out the door, feeling refreshed despite being so tired. It’s so good to connect with Ukrainian culture again.

I can’t wait to go back to Ukraine one day, a free and liberated Ukraine…

Tryzub Ukrainian Kitchen
2201 West Chicago Avenue
Chicago, Illinois