Recommendation Renewed? Not Quite… (Review #4: El Che Steakhouse)

9 May 2024

Back in November 2023 my heart was broken when El Che Steakhouse curated an awful evening for me on an already awful day. The disappointing dinner left me to withdraw what was a previously wholehearted recommendation for this popular Argentinian-style meatery, which saddened me, because it was the best place to get things like tira de asado in Chicagoland.

After a half-year absence, I decided to drop in after a busy Thursday at the office. Would it be like that awful experience in November, or more like that wonderful first visit nearly a year ago?

I chose to sit at the bar as I did not want to risk the bad table service again. The corner seat where I sat on my first visit, so maybe that’s a sign. A drink later, I was disappointed to see that delicious morcilla off the menu. So many places play it too safe in Chicago, it’s like that Basque-style steakhouse that I shall not name that told me outright that they trip off all that glorious fat that makes the steaks because people complained. Sacrilege.

I ordered and relaxed. The bar filled up quickly as usual, and soon my first item arrived, the chorizo.

Good as always, they do have consistently good quality meats. Cooked well, so I’m relaxing. I then ordered the next set and chilled, enjoying some comedy from the two people sitting next to me complaining about berries in their sangria (to which the bartender, who makes the sangria, insisted have no berries).

The tira de asado was pretty good, but clearly they are making smaller and thicker cuts compared from earlier on. It was cooked well and seasoned well, so I got no complaints.

I just wished the asparagus came at the same time, but they showed up a bit earlier. They were good, but really did not need the stuff on top. I’m always sad that places overdo these sides when all we want is good quality vegetables with our beef…

That was good, but I had half the asparagus left, and I was in a good mood, so I ordered one more tira de asado. When it arrived I so wish I didn’t…

It was borderline raw on the bottom, clearly not cooked medium, nowhere close. They forgot to flip it that’s for sure. It’s like when it gets busy, this kitchen just can’t handle it. But this was so off it was annoying. Tira de asado really needs to be cooked well to get the most out of it, not this half-raw mess.

It was this disappointing end that made it hard to recommend this place again. I had a nice chat with the bartender, who did a good job fending off the weird, complaining customers. A drink later, I was done. Sadly this didn’t restore my confidence in this restaurant, so I felt a little deflated.

Recommendation not restored…

El Che Steakhouse
845 West Washington Boulevard
Chicago, Illinois

* At least I had the chance to walk up to Publican Quality Meats to grab some good stuff for my kitchen!

Review: Maman Zari

26 March 2024

I’ve been dying to try Maman Zari here in Chicago since they opened. Billed as the only Persian tasting menu in town, and as a big fan of Persian cuisine, I was really looking forward to getting there after a very long day at the office.

It all went well, with a shockingly clean and relatively empty Red Line ride to change for the last slog on the Brown to Kedzie, where Maman Zari was located adjacent to the station. I got there early but was seated. I relaxed with a cocktail and looked at the special Nowruz tasting menu they have. Interesting, lots of traditional dishes, I’m curious about their take on them.

A nice beet-centric amuse came out, which helped get my palate ready for the evening. When I finished my cocktail, a nice bubbly from Burgundy is poured and we have the kuku sabzi to start the tasting.

An interesting and delicious traditional herb frittata, with the fruit condiment adding a nice touch. The bubbles worked well with this dish. Then a pour of a nice albariño for the next dish, which is actually a dual dish, of which the first was revealed under a smoke lid.

Mirza ghasemi is a traditional smoked eggplant dish and this was done very well. Lovely cherrywood aromas too. Plus those crisps are borderline addictive. The accompanying sabzi khordan is a traditional herb service.

Quite nice, the marinated olives were delicious. All interesting takes on traditional Persian dishes. Then a pour of a pinot blanc and we have the salad dish.

A nicely-plated version of the traditional Shirazi salad, with the elements in strips instead of the usual chopped. But the three key elements of cucumber, tomato, and onions shine nicely here. This sets us up for the larger dishes, as well as the nice pour of the rarely seen xynisteri from Cyprus.

The mahi sefid ba sabzi polo is their take on the traditional fish fry with herbal rice, using branzino, and this was done very well. The fish was delicious and rich, although the rice was a touch rich with the already rich fish. So far this has been a very nice tasting menu, not blown away, but very solid.

Sadly that changed with the next dish, the jujeh kabob negindar. The chicken with saffron was not tasty and had that way overcooked consistency that reminded me of chicken you get on an airplane back in the 1990s. The mince on top was a little better, but it was also lacking. Sadly this was a letdown, only the Greek rosé carried this dish.

For the final savoury dish a pinot noir from Oregon was poured and we have the reshteh polo ba ghormeh sabzi.

This is an interesting take on another traditional dish, but I think it was way too oily. Maybe a touch ambitious, as it was hard to eat all the rice under the fried noodles, all soaked in oil. The lamb and beans were also a little lacking to be honest. It’s too bad that things started to weaken after that excellent fish dish.

That was also the end of the pairings, so I asked for a coffee and some arak as the dessert was presented.

This was quite nice, with the traditional sholezard on top of the ferni. Mixing them made them especially delicious, a nice way to close the night.

A plate of cookies came as I finished my beverages. However, a billing mistake (in my favour) came up so I pointed it out to them and they thanked me, and comped me another drink as they processed the bill. The service was excellent, so I added a tip on top of the pre-added service charge.

I thanked the very nice folks and headed for my bus on a windy evening. Sadly the food started to weaken just as it got into the main dishes, and that kabob was just not good. Again, this was a special menu, so perhaps I should have come when it was their normal tasting. Let’s see, maybe I’ll check them out again in the future. But it’s worth a try, at least once.

Maman Zari
4639 North Kedzie Avenue
Chicago, Illinois

Review #4: Bayan Ko

21 February 2024

I was a little surprised late last year when I got an email from excellent local Filipino-Cuban restaurant Bayan Ko that they were expanding into a new space nearby, but the existing place would be converted to a tasting menu.

And intrigued.

I’ve really enjoyed most of my dining experiences at Bayan Ko over the past year since my first visit in August 2023. Although my last visit missed the mark a little, I was definitely willing to give this new experience a try.

A very, very long day at the office in an extremely busy week, I fought my way back north to Bayan Ko. Got there late no thanks to the disappearing Brown Line trains. The CTA is such a damn joke…

But I got there and chilled with a nice cocktail as I looked at the interesting 5-course menu. And a little amuse surprise.

A taste little nibble focusing on whitefish roe. Delicious, and thirst-inducing, so I drained my cocktail happily. I went with the wine pairing and we began with a rather generous pour of Catalunyan cava when the first dish arrived.

Oh this is good. The black forbidden rice was absolutely delicious with the lobster, the fragrance was gorgeous as well. And the quail egg is always a winner. Definitely a winning dish here, and generous too. Then another generous pour of albariño we get the second dish. No prize for guessing what this is.

Good octopus. A little soft for me, but this is the type of octopus dish that makes people who are not octopus lovers (like me and Chef Lawrence Letrero are) like the stuff. Good dish. Then another generous pour (a sense a trend) of rioja and we have the beef.

This is absolutely scrumptious, solid wagyu here. Cooked perfectly, with that melt-in-your-mouth stuff that you just love with this beef. With the beans and plantain, as well as onions helping it along, this was a fabulous dish.

I am a little surpised by the portion sizes for this cheap of a tasting menu ($90), as well as the very generous pours on the wine pairing (only $45). Talking about that, now we have a beautiful garnacha – again a very generous pour – for the final savoury dish.

Lovely lechon here, solid stuff. I love when pork is cooked well, and it’s cooked perfectly here. Rich, crispy, flavourful. Beautiful, topped by some delicious tamal too. And it’s again a good size, so I was full!

Everything was absolutely fantastic from both front and back of the house this evening, and my love affairs with Bayan Ko has been revived! A nice amaro and we have the dessert.

It’s their take on bibingka, the traditional Filipino coconut cake. Really nice, a great way to end the evening that’s for sure!

I headed out very happy, already planning when I’ll be visiting again! Of course that depends on if the Brown Line hasn’t deteriorated even further by then!

This new format is absolutely fabulous, highly recommended!!!

Bayan Ko
1810 Montrose Avenue
Chicago, Illinois

I Miss Those Baby Tagines in Rabat… (Review: Shokran)

4 February 2024

This was a busy weekend. I’ve been stressed out on life stuff, as February is always the toughest month for me. So I spent Saturday morning doing some urban hiking and hanging out with some deer, before a very filling ćevapi lunch at D-4 Bosnian Cafe – to fuel me for some errands I had to run in the afternoon while fighting the haphazard appearances of buses that never adhere to any schedule…

Sunday was no different as I was out the door early for a lot more urban hiking. Some 7 miles later, including an hour-long bus ride, I was tired and hungry. A stop at a cidery for a few drinks and then it was time for a mid-afternoon linner.

I was within walking distance from a Moroccan place I wanted to try named Shokran. I got there and saw the “cash only” sign on the door. Hmmmm, do I have enough? I hope so. I walked in and as they opened at 3pm and it’s about 20 minutes after, I’m the first customer.

I looked over the menu and immediately I miss Rabat and eating there.

I eventually ordered and snacked on some pita that soon arrived. Also a nice jug of mint tea, one of the joys I really miss. I love the mild burn a truly good and strong mint tea brings. I was hungry so I was eagerly awaiting the food to arrive.

Well, this version of bastilla (pastilla) is huge. But it also wasn’t very good. One, the chicken was borderline indedible (read: cooked for days), rendered into something beyond mystery meat…it didn’t even taste like meat anymore. Plus, all you taste is sweet, not just from the powdered sugar, but everything else. This would have been an interesting dessert.

Honestly, when I was in Morocco I avoided this dish of this because I don’t particular like sugar with meat, and had a spectacular savoury seafood version instead. Oh well, I need a box for this, especially with my main coming…

The royal couscous dish was huge, laden with vegetables and various meats: chicken, merguez, and of course the lamb. The broth was much needed, drenching my plate. The lamb was fabulous, I have to say, but everything else wasn’t. The merguez was passable, but the chicken was a brick, and some of the vegetable was cold yet overcooked like it was reheated badly. The couscous itself was okay. But it was a gigantic dish again, so I was defeated after finishing about half of it.

So two boxes of mediocrity to go home with. It’s a cash only place, so I settled up quickly and headed out for my rideshare. I’m lazy after all that hiking and too much food this late afternoon…

It was okay, but not a place to repeat, sadly. But it does make me miss eating in Morocco…

Shokran
4027 West Irving Park Road
Chicago, Illinois

Review: Sayat-Nova

1 Feburary 2024

Some folks may not like going back to the office, luckily my job makes it very flexible. So I personally opt to go in once or twice a week, and it’s actually very useful – both to connect and to have some focused time to work without the distractions you have at home. So I can get some very focused stuff done starting at 7am (yeah, I go in early to avoid a very crowded bus), so by the end of the workday I am tired.

And I tend to skip lunch also, which makes the game of finding food more fun. I have a bunch of regular places I like to visit, but I also am constantly looking for places that makes it easier to visit when I am at the office. And today’s experiment is Sayat-Nova in River North.

Armenian food is delicious, but sometimes you don’t really get the traditional Armenian stuff but a blended, regional cuisine that’s been shaped due to the diaspora. I’ve been to Armenian restaurants that are all but Persian or Lebanese, with one or two Armenian specialties. Looking at the menu here, I suspect that’s the case here, as there’s no Armenian staples like tjvjik or even spas, and it’s very heavy on kebabs…

I got there and it was empty – except for the half-full bar. But everyone chose to take 2-3 seats with their bags, so I ended up on a table…fine. I relaxed with a drink and ordered from the menu, sighing that there weren’t many of the Armenian dishes I wanted to eat. Sadly very common with Armenian restaurants these days, as they just want to serve kebabs, remembering my short stay in Fresno and dinner at AJ’s Armenian Cuisine.

After a short time my starter arrived.

Lamajoun (lamajun) is a traditional Armenian treat, and these worked well. I read some reviews of people complaining about portion size, really? This is a hearty starter that should be shared. It was quite good.

Then my lulla (lule) kebab, which is the most Armenian of the kebabs offered. Quite good, again a hefty portion.

Goes with the rather uninspiring taboule I had on the side. I would have preferred some traditional Armenian etch, but what can you do?

It was a good filling dinner, but I rather have had some truly traditional Armenian dishes this evening if they had been offered. Oh well. At least I’ll have a dessert.

The mahalabeya, or milk pudding, was rather uninspired again. It’s almost like the kitchen is going through the motions, which also explains the menu being something less traditional and something easier to replicate (like kebabs).

I thanked my server and headed out, a little disappointed. The food was relatively good, but it was definitely not the Armenian experience I would have wanted. I really wish they add more traditional Armenian dishes as there’s very little opportunity to get stuff like tjvjik even in a city like Chicago. Now I can get kebabs just about anywhere…

Sayat-Nova
157 East Ohio Street
Chicago, Illinois

Review: Mehanata

22 January 2024

It was a very long flight back to Chicago from Paris, about 9.5 hours. Immigration was surprisingly fast, but then everything fell apart no thanks to the incompetence of Air France and O’Hare combined. Bags were coming, but turns out not all of them. Took about 1.5 hours for the “priority” bags to come out, meaning a lot of people missed their connections because of the idiocy of the airline and most likely the airport.

I’ve never heard so many French people swear in English before.

Finally got out of the airport and of course being in Terminal 5 it’s either get on the stupid people mover to Terminal 2 for the privilege of taking a rideshare or to risk a crappy Chicago taxi. This stupid city…no thanks to our stupid ex-mayor Lori Lightfoot…

So I compromised and took a taxi to a nearby restaurant for an early dinner. The idiot driver went the wrong way as well and had all sorts of attitude. This is why I fucking hate Chicago taxis…just the rudest assholes that complain yet are too lazy to use their gps for anything. They don’t care if they go the wrong way, the meter is running!

Either way, I got to Mehanata, the Bulgarian restaurant that I have wanted to try even before I moved to Chicago. It was empty this early Monday evening, not helped by some threats of an icy night. I sat at the bar, ordered a bottle of an excellent Bulgarian red from Targovishte, and relaxed to pour over the extremely long menu.

I eventually ordered, knowing how big the dishes are. Enjoying the wine and chatting with my bartender, soon the food started to arrive.

Shopska salad is a must in a Bulgarian meal, so it’s there as a side. I missed having this, it’s been awhile.

Some good garlic bread too, and I do appreciate it being heavy on the garlic the way I love it!

Then my “starter” – just to show the size of these dishes – a traditional beef tripe and tongue dish in a garlic and mushroom sauce. Two of my favourite things together, quite good. I love how you can enjoy the texture of both, not too soft (thus mushy) but not difficult to eat. Perfect.

But way too much food, especially after a very long flight. So I had to take a lot of it to go. Finished my wine and enjoyed a rakia then thanked my excellent bartender before heading out for my excellent Uber home.

Good stuff, I think I will drop by again in the future after landing at O’Hare, especially if I’m trapped at Terminal 5!

Mehanata
1141 Lee Street
Des Plaines, Illinois

A Ridiculously Poor Excuse for Dimsum – Review: MingHin Cuisine (Streeterville)

17 January 2024

My quest to find good dimsum in Chicago has been ongoing. Too many disappointments, from just poorly-made products to inauthenticity in flavour. So one evening after a long day at the office, I decided to stop off at MingHin Cuisine for a quick dinner.

I have never been to their Streeterville location, even though it’s relatively close to my office. I’ve had some good food from their main Chinatown location, so I have high hopes.

Immediately those hopes were falling as I walk into the malodorous restaurant…not the most inviting smell, especially in River North. Placed into a big banquette, I ordered. As they did not do wines by the glass, I went with tea. And I’m glad I did, as things just went pearshaped when the food began to arrive…

First, these pork ribs were a complete disaster. Tiny shards of bone everywhere shows an absolute lack of care in preparation. Plus more often than not there were nothing more than bone. Probably the very worst version of this dish I’ve ever had over hundreds of times eating it. Plain awful.

The tripe was absolutely flavourless, like they totally forgot to season it during prep. Almost no sense of ginger, one of the prime essences of this common dish. Again, just piss poor quality.

The crab roll would have been good if it wasn’t literally soaking in oil. My goodness the amount of residual liquid oil inside these rolls could have filled a sauce plate…

Then some very uninspired shumai, but you literally cannot screw this dish up, but they still tried somehow… Sloppy is the word.

And finally, the wrapped sticky rice was the last straw. Poorly made, the contents are all cheap and not traditional, and they weren’t even inside the sticky rice – but added on the side like the person who made it had no idea what these dishes are.

I’m done. This is extremely sad, like dimsum being made by people who either never been in a kitchen or have no idea what dimsum is. For MingHin to do this is even sadder.

Avoid this location at least. The main Chinatown shop needs to do some quality control, and fast! I can’t imagine how much the rent is on this space for them to serve some of the WORST dimsum I’ve had in my life!

MingHin Cuisine (Streeterville)
215 East Ohio Street
Chicago, Illinois

The 10 Best Dishes of 2023

As I said in the previous post on the 10 best dining experiences of the past year, 2023 was a good year for eating. Now I’m presenting the 10 best dishes of the year.

This list is very different, but related, to the previous post, as it undoubtedly influenced this particular list. I tried not to replicate any from the previous list, but two were just too good not to add here… But overall, I tried to avoid listing things twice, although a few other dishes from the previous list would come very, very close to making this list.

Anyway, hope you enjoy this second look back at my food journey in 2023!

1. Tripe and dungeness crab at Off Alley (Seattle, Washington, 1 December)

Stunning dish. Maybe the best tripe dish I’ve had in my life, and I eat them all the time as my readers know. I make it at home quite often as well. This version captured the essence of tripe for me, easy to eat but retaining the necessary unique texture and flavour. Oh, and that crab and sauce… Absolutely stunning, worth flying across the country for.

2. Capitone at Pulejo (Roma, Italia, 29 March)

Again, sorry for another repeat from the previous list, but this was ridiculously good. So good, I ordered a second dish! I love eel, and these large European eels are getting harder and harder to find. No need for any unnecessary smoking, cooking these things fresh is the best way to capture its flavour. So good.

3. Short rib at EnVie (Lansing, Michigan, 8 April)

Finding something good in Michigan’s capital was unexpected, but getting one of the best braised short rib dishes in your life was ridiculously unexpected. Cooked to absolute perfection, this oft-ruined…ah, let’s be honest, ruined 99% of the time…dish retained flavour and texture without losing the unique qualities of the short rib in a way that’s hard to describe without you tasting it. But needless to say, it made a huge impression on me, and makes me want to visit Lansing again and again.

4. Crudo at Pescheria Mattiucci (Napoli, Italia, 30 March)

Just look at this crudo plate. I waited years to return to Napoli to have its amazing seafood, and this was a welcome reward for my first night back. The gamberi rossi were especially delicious. This tiny eatery has become world famous for its daily crudo selection, and it’s easy to see why! Most people stop off here just for this dish on their evening stroll. If I lived in Napoli, that’s what I’d do!

5. Duck at Noisette (Denver, Colorado, 29 April)

I honestly did not expect to have such a good night at this new and very popular Denver eatery, but the kitchen and front-of-house staff surprised me – especially with the perfectly cooked duck. The additions of pea shoots and morels turned a fabulous dish into a spectacular one that landed on this list. It’s not easy that a duck dish beats something from Boka, which consistently makes some of the best dish in the world, but this certainly did that night!

6. Tira de asado at El Che Steakhouse (Chicago, Illinois, 20 June)

It’s hard enough to find proper tira de asado in Chicago, but this version was done so darn well it turned me into a devotee of El Che for a short time – until they blew it a few months later with poor quality meat and wonky service. But the memories of this first visit, where I enjoyed very high quality rib meat, plus a very generous portion, remain. So delicious… Question is whether I should give them another chance in 2024 – will I get something nearly as good as this, or will I get another dud like the last visit?

7. Tomato broth at Iluka (København, Danmark, 10 October)

Really, Mel? Even with that amazing whole plaice you ate, you’re picking the soup? Yes. It was a spectacular dinner at Iluka in Denmark’s capital, but what really made it amazing was the opener. This tomato broth was so intense and refreshing it’s something I would dream of bottling up and drinking all the time! Of course the oysters and samphire made this even more memorable, but I totally stand by adding this as one of the top ten dishes of 2023!

8. Monkfish stew at The Franklin (Portsmouth, New Hampshire, 5 November)

I didn’t expect much when I saw this dish as exclusive to one of those dreaded “restaurant week” menus, but turned out to be a complete surprise. Strong flavours, with a perfectly cooked (and generous) piece of monkfish that worked super well with the rest of the dish. A true feast for seafood lovers! And more impressive this came on that dreaded “restaurant week” menu!

9. Beef tartar at Matū (Beverly Hills, California, 27 December)

I usually don’t order tartar because of the multitude of variables, from quality of the meat to the quality of the meat cutter. You can have fabulous quality meat but the tartar ruined due to poor cutting. And even a good cutter can rescue poor quality meat just so much. But this so-so food at Matū was absolutely highlighted by this dish. One of the best tartar dishes I’ve had in ages.

10. Salo at Anelya (Chicago, Illinois, 30 December 2023)

Nothing reminds me of Ukraine more than enjoying some salo, and the version I had at Chicago’s newest Ukrainian restaurant, Anelya, was absolutely spectacular. One of those you just put in your mouth and experience two minutes of pure pleasure as it melt away. It really sums up the whole concept of the “best dish of the year” for me. Mmm…

Again, this list is subjective, but looking back at so many good dishes through 2023 it’s not easy to extract the best from the year. This just represents 10 times that something jumped out at me so significantly that it left a memory that’s hard not to cherish.

What were your 10 best dishes of 2023?

The 10 Best Dining Experiences of 2023

One of the joys of travelling again is being able to experience so much good food. Of course, that also means treading through some mediocre (and some just awful) stuff as well. Of all of 2023, these I believe represent the 10 best dining experiences of my 2023.

Now before you start asking questions, this is obviously very subjective. And this represents the entire dining experience, not just one or a few particular dishes. I will have a “10 Best Dishes” list as the next post, so save your appetite for that as well!

As always, click on the photos for a larger version. And read the original reviews by clicking the title.

I hope you enjoy this little trip back through 2023!

1. Nuta (Warszawa, Polska, 7 October)

It’s been years since I’ve been back to Warsaw, and what I missed greatly is tasting the wonderful creations of my dear friend Chef Andrea Camastra. Since my last visit he shuttered his Michelin-starred Senses and opened Nuta, which has quickly earned a Michelin star as well. I predict it will become a 3-star restaurant sooner than later. The last time I made this prediction was many years ago about a certain Maaemo in Oslo, and you can see what happened there. Just look at some of these dishes, the intensity of flavours, coming to the edge of overwhelming you but never stepping over the ledge, shows what magic his kitchen can create. Absolutely groundbreaking stuff, and these photos or words can’t describe these flavours. You really need to experience for yourself.

2. Off Alley (Seattle, Washington, 1 December)

This turned out to be one of the biggest and best surprises of the year, a wonderful night of excellent service and amazing food in a converted alley. Reminds me a little of the legendary eel restaurant Kabuto in Tokyo, but a little more forgiving for the knees! Every dish was stunning, from the black cod to duck, from the grilled foie to the foie ice cream. However, the tripe and dungeness crab is easily a candidate for dish of the year. So good, it may force me to look at using Seattle as a springboard to any West Coast/Pacific travels in the future!

3. Pulejo (Roma, Italia, 29 March)

This is the dinner where I had a “terzo” – asking for a second helping of the amazing capitone. But overall this Michelin-starred restaurant is one of the best, from service to food. I usually avoid Michelin places in Italy, but Pulejo is truly a gem. Each of the dishes were spectacular, from the cuttlefish to the tortelli. But goodness that eel, it’s beyond memorable. Truly worth its star in an age where Michelin has become degraded, with some of the best and friendliest service in the continent.

4. Nasime (Alexandria, Virginia, 23 November)

One thing I miss most about Japan is being able to have a kaiseki dinner at a counter. Nasime is about as good as it gets without the $1500 tickets to Tokyo. Amazing quality and cooking, and a vibe that remains as authentic as it gets without it being stale or static. Chef Shimomura’s cooking is always fantastic and boundary pushing, without losing the overall characteristic of an excellent kaiseki experience. From the foie miso grilled lamb to the yuba-wrapped Chilean sea bass, each dish was stunningly good as usual. And likely the most affordable kaiseki in North America, not to mention one of the very best. So good to be back…

5. Piatto Romano (Roma, Italia, 29 March)

This lunch inspired me to revive this blog. On my first trip to Europe since 2019, it not just helped to revive this blog, but this Piatto Romano experience was so quintessentially Lazio it made me love food and travel again. The beef heart was amazing, and eating the pasta made me tear up. Something very special about this lunch that really kicked me out of the 3-year deluge I’ve been in. Probably the first time I smiled so carefree since 2019 whilst sipping on that grappa…

6. Cocoro (Chicago, Illinois, 10 May)

Cocoro has become my hideaway, especially after a long day at the office. This is my comfort food, just feasting on Japanese delicacies, from the addictive shishamo to some excellent nigiri (their hotate is always fantastic), and the always spectacular saba sashimi. But with so much on the menu, as well as my favourite shochu (Tantakatan, made from red shiso leaves), it’s no wonder it’s become a perennial favourite of mine. But it was this first visit that made me fall in love with this place, one that I now have a “usual” table.

7. Kiln (London, England, 12 October)

Kiln has been a staple for me in London, and it has never disappointed (unlike most other London eateries). Love the vibe and music, sitting at my “usual” corner seat in front of the turntable, enjoying amazing dishes. This time the culled yaw was exceptional, as well as the always-good sausage. Throw in a scrumptious bavette, rich monkfish swimming in ankimo curry, and delicious cockles, this lunch became a 2.5hr epic. Absolutely best place to eat in a London that has ebbed and flowed for years.

8. Bayan Ko (Chicago, Illinois, 17 August)

Getting to Bayan Ko involved an unpleasant post-work ride on the disgusting Red Line and perpetually delayed and overcrowded Brown Line, but it’s worth it. My first visit on this stormy summer day was the best of them all, as sadly my most recent visit showed a noticeable decline in quality of food. But this particular visit was just breathtaking, from the scrumptious sisig nigiri to the lamb belly, not to mention the palabok and the duck. Let’s hope 2024 brings this quality back when they shift formats to a tasting menu!

9. Leichi (Santa Clara, California, 2 September)

I think left coasters have so many great choices when it comes to authentic Asian cuisine they don’t truly appreciate it. For me, finding a place like Leichi during my domestic travels – with some extremely authentic izakaya items that I’ve not had since Japan – is truly a treasure. From the chicken cartilage to fermented squid innards, it was truly a night when for a tiny second felt like I was back in Tokyo, or even Hakodate… Makes me miss Japan plenty, but this was about as close as it gets to being back.

10. Aji (Chicago, Illinois, 25 October)

Many of my long-time followers will be surprised with this one. Although I generally don’t like overly-creative omakase sushi experiences, being an edomae traditionalist, I have really grown to like what Aji does. They don’t overdo it, respecting the fish – which so many places don’t do properly (including a place in St Louis I choose not to name again). But of all my 2023 visits, this October one turned out to be spectacular, not just for some excellent pieces like the kampachi, aji, and the fabulous toro-uni hand roll, but also for the unexpected appearance of my favourite fish, nodoguro – which I’ve not had since I was in Japan many years ago.

It was very hard to put this list together, as there were many runners up that made the second half of this list very hard to compile. Some will be represented in the next (“10 Best Dishes”) list, when certain dishes just transformed a dining experience.

What were your 10 best dining experiences of 2023?

Review: Boonie’s Filipino Restaurant

11 January 2024

As mentioned earlier, 2024 is not starting very well. And that trend isn’t really changing, so I wanted to wind down a little after a stressful day at the office. I chose Boonie’s Filipino Restaurant because I’ve heard so many good things, and I wanted to skip boozing today because I have an early morning important event to attend.

I got there early, thanks to a somewhat functional Brown Line. Still quiet, and they gave me a nice spot at the counter. This would be a good bar, but alas they are a BYOB place. So a mango juice in hand, I ordered. Skipped lunch, so was hungry.

And in no time the freshly-fried lumpia came out. This was absolutely delicious, some of the best I’ve had in a long time, better than the ones at Bayan Ko. I was really optimistic at this point.

The garlic rice then came out, and I was glad it was as garlicky as advertised. For someone who eats garlic raw all the time and uses it excessively cooking, this was a treat. Went well also with the liempo.

Good chunks of pork belly, did not make me regret skipping on my absolute favourite thing, the beef shortrib. This was so far a really good dinner. And after a little, conserving my rice, the main course arrived, kare kare.

Their rendition is beef tongue. Although they say it’s braised, they did way too much to it afterwards. The sauce on it did not work, sadly, fighting the somewhat burnt tongue and its werd texture. Cutting the tongue lost its unique appeal, especially since there were chunks that seems burnt solid that was hard to eat. The bagoong helped it down, but when I ran out of bagoong on the side, I had to abandon the rest of this dish.

Oh well, that was an optimistic start that didn’t carry through to the end. Too bad. I thanked my excellent server and headed out for a much-needed walk to do some pre-storm shopping.

Maybe that last dish was an anomaly. Too bad, as it started so good.

Boonie’s Filipino Restaurant
4337 North Western Avenue
Chicago, Illinois