23 January 2018
I made my way out of Berlin to Vienna, which had an added bit of entertainment with the musicians of the Estonian Festival Orchestra also making their way between concerts. Some of them were puzzled why a fellow traveller trying to help them with fitting instruments into the overhead bins was speaking to them in Estonian…
Anyway, made it to Vienna in one piece, and limped my way through the airport to the train station. Hopped on the S-Bahn and got to town. Although on a normal day the walk from Renneweg to my hotel would be 2-3 minutes, this turned into a ever-slowing limp. Damn, I may have pushed things too far…
Thank goodness the senior reception clerk there took pity on me after her junior colleague told me to wait until 3pm to check in…apparently she understands foot issues. So I happily got to my room and rested this accursed foot… I didn’t have to move until dinner time, so that’s what I did.
Later on I headed out by Taxify (which, btw, works pretty poorly in Vienna…), and got to my dinner destination at the posh Hotel Imperial. Opus is one of the 1-Michelin restaurants in the old imperial capital, and I’m hoping for a good dinner. I’ve had rather mixed experiences in Vienna, from the excellent at 1-star Konstantin Filippou (which I’m revisiting tomorrow evening) to the extremely inconsistent 2-star Steiereck.
I got there just as they opened and it seemed a bit confused at first, but it quickly fell into a good working mode once the martini got into my hand and I relaxed… Good cocktail, and I happily went with the 7-course tasting with wine pairing. Soon the procession of amuse began, first with an oxtail croquette.
Nice and tasty, excellent flavour. Then we get a prawn avocado snack…
Hmmm, actually hard to eat with this odd-shaped spade, and it didn’t really have much flavour. At this point they put the bread service out…
A rather nice one, with several butters to choose from, including the candle on the left which slowly melted into a salted butter dip. Good bread too. Then the last snack appears, a very aromatic broth.
Mmm, this was good, a truffle broth with a cheese nibble on top. The cheese was boring but the broth is something you just want to keep smelling. Very nice.
By now I was relaxed, the martini drained, and was happily nibbling at the bread (especially now the candle has burned down). Then with a pour of a local muscat we start with the first dish, sea bass ceviche.
Surprisingly good, the fish was crisp and clean, working very well with that wine. A good start! Then a good pour of a local chardonnay and they bring out a nice prawn and a hot stone for me to cook with…
And they also bring out the plate, which had a shellfish broth with an amazing aroma… I cooked the prawn lightly and then finished plating the number…
This was delicious, but that shellfish broth was just awesome… So rich and deep, and it worked so well with the really nice prawn. This easily beat the mess at Sea Grill in Brussels a few weeks earlier… Really happy so far with this meal, as things moved in a relatively good pace as well. Then a pour of a local pinot gris and we have an odd one…
Supposedly this is artichoke, but on my notes all I wrote about this dish was “WTF” and I still can’t figure much of it out. Supposedly with vaudovan and sorrel, but this tasted like a total mess… About 4-5 other ingredients I couldn’t put my finger on, but it was a mesh of oddly sweet, fried to death, horribly creamy and tasteless elements onto one plate. May be one of the worst things I’ve seen in awhile, even worse than that dreadful “rock crab” dish last night in Berlin at Bandol sur Mer…
Anyway, I didn’t really finish that…I needed a huge drink of water and once the next wine, a pinot noir was poured, I needed a good sip of it to clear that off. Then the next dish, pigeon breast…
To be honest this wasn’t that good. The meat was dry and rather boring, but the sauce was utterly fantastic. Whoever the saucier is in this kitchen is bloody fabulous. Rarely do I praise sauce, but this is so unusually good… It made the pigeon palatable.
And at this point, though the place was about half full, the service has slowed dramatically. This is what I noticed at Steiereck too, the lack of consistency in service. Worse, I noticed there are only 2 people working the entire dining room… Understaffed?
After a bit of a long wait, which wasn’t too bad because of the generally good wine pours, my server returns with a nice merlot and the next dish, veal fillet.
Really good dish actually, the veal was tender and flavourful. But once again the sauce was fantastic, and turned a good veal into an excellent dish. How rarely do I say that?! The selection of beans was also quite interesting and nice, as you rarely see them anymore. Good stuff!
Well, I just remembered that this marked the end of the savouries and I see my server bring a bubbly Grüner Veltliner, which was followed by the cheese plate.
A nice selection of local items, the soft ones starring more this evening than usual. One comment — that having bread now instead of crackers or crispbread is a bit too filling… But a good selection of nice cheeses. I enjoyed that. Then with the pour of a local port, we have our dessert…
Well, supposedly made with Valrhona 68% but the chocolate was decidedly weak in this case… The other bits are just tasteless decorations. Well, at least there’s no edible gold, right? A weak end to a relatively good night.
I ordered a final tipple and enjoyed it as they brought out the last treats…
A pretty good night overall. A few hiccups, especially with that “artichoke” dish. Service was good despite only having 2 servers for an entire restaurant (short-staffed?), which really shouldn’t happen at a Michelin-starred eatery. But that was compensated by good pours of wine. And some of the dishes were quite nice, and the saucier should really be commended for making some amazing sauces — something I rarely, rarely ever say as an I-prefer-no-sauce person…
I headed out satisfied, but brought back to reality when that was in the form of a limp — and dealing with a confused Taxify driver… I’d recommend this place, but they really need to figure out that “artichoke” dish…
Opus
Hotel Imperial
Kärntner Ring 16
Wien, Österreich