New York City
7 June 2013
I was bored back in NYC. After a lengthy trip with a lot of eating, I had been taking it easy back home. Hitting the gym again, now that my body is completely healed, it felt good. But it was Friday night, and I was bored.
In addition, the reminants of a tropical storm was rolling into the area, so during the afternoon it was already raining cats and dogs. And knowing how NYC worked on a summer Friday night, especially with bad weather, it should be a quieter-than-usual night. So I decided to go for a nice big meal.
I’ve not done a tasting menu in NYC in ages, but from a friend and fellow food blogger’s high recommendations, I decided to check out Corton. The photos from my friend’s blog, Toast to Roast, looked so good I had to give this place a shot despite the mixed reviews I’ve heard elsewhere. So I braved the storm and headed downtown.
The rain was messy and as soon as I walked up from the subway the flooding was already apparent. I walked into the restaurant and went into the restroom to dry off — only to notice the flooding is happening indoors too…looked like it was coming out of the toilet…just tried not to think about that…ugh…
I sat down and looked at the menu — which boasted 2 tasting menus, one full, one seasonal. I went for the full, and asked for a wine pairing…but they said they didn’t do it. Great… In a 2-Michelin place? I then went through the less-than-interesting-for-me and overpriced winelist for a few that worked through the evening. I am not a fan of Burgundy wines, so this was not the place for me. But let’s see if I have better luck with this 2-Michelin place than several of the last 2-Michelin places I’ve been…
I sat down and ordered a cocktail and before I had a chance to even relax, the set of 3 amuse bouche arrived…
The funny thing is that I saw them coming out with it earlier but turned around…but this is a little fast. Can I get my cocktail and relax first? It was pouring outside! The one on the left is a nettle financier, which didn’t do much for me. The right was some filled puff pastry, just nibbles. The middle is a crisp of sea buckthorn. Now having raved about sea buckthorn all trip, especially in at Ö in Estonia and Hix in London, it was nice to get a tail-end taste of this tangy treat. Not bad.
But really, it came too fast. It was awhile before my rhubarb negroni arrived…was a bit too sweet, none of the needed bitterness. Then the fourth amuse bouche came, a steamed egg chawanmushi…
Okay, this failed badly. It had very little flavour, and it was so watery the consistency was a total mess. If they tried to replicate a Japanese dish, they failed very badly…
Even before my wine arrived — I had ordered a half bottle of good white for the veg-and-fish-centric front end of the tasting — the first course already arrived…huh? The first was based around beets, with foie gras as the key ingredient.
Looks nice, but it was rather boring. Nothing interesting about this, especially having just been in Budapest, the liver capital of the world. Frankly the foie gras tasted like it had been in the fridge for too long. Not too impressed so far, very typical, looking more like something from a cooking school…
For the second dish the server was raving about the asparagus, telling me the asparagus is like nothing I’ve seen…erm, I was just in Central Europe during the start of asparagus season, so…yeah, I’ve seen it.
Oh, this was a waste! The orangy base that cooked the asparagus just did not work at all. In fact, it killed the taste of the asparagus. Why get a beautiful spear like this just to screw with it Heston-style for no reason? Over-chef’ing 101 here. BTW the crayfish was bland (except for a chunk of oddly-fallen sea salt) and really odd, and the snails? It’s in the wasabi-ball-like thing. Another miss. Now this has to be the “bad plate of 2013” for me…
I’m not impressed at all so far. Frankly this may wow people in Peoria or Abilene, but if you’re in NYC and able to dine here you’ve probably been to some nice places in Europe. This restaurant makes me feel like I’m in Las Vegas — faux Europe, or Europe lite. Ugh… Dish three is the shimaaji, the striped jack.
Those of you sushi lovers will know this fish well. This was tasty and I’m glad Chef Liebrandt didn’t over-chef this one. Simple enough to enjoy the flavour of the fish. I completely avoided the white blob on the side. Whatever it was, it wasn’t working with the fish…
Now these 3 courses have come in about 15 minutes. I barely have a chance to rest before the next dish shows up. I also am pouring my own wine as the sommelier seemed confused about the pace also, as he was since the first course came out before the wine…
After a brief palate cleanser (a gelatinous ball) we’re on course four and we’re on a record pace here… Again we visit a beautiful fish, this time the char.
Now I love char, I love cooking it at home when I get fresh ones. Honestly, the char from my kitchen was better than this version. The temperature felt rather odd, it’s like warm-ish…not lukewarm, not hot, not even warm, but warm-ish… It didn’t complement the rich taste of the char at all, unfortunately. Looked nice, but again more visual than taste.
By now the wine is drained and I am waiting to switch to a red for the lamb. The sommerlier came by and poured the last drops of the bottle of white and said perhaps we should have done a full bottle… Huh? Tthen I told him that we’re already at the lamb. He looked utterly confused, then surprised at how fast this meal was going. Totally out of synch…
Yeah. From sitting down to finishing course four it’s been about half hour…this is nuts. And again before my red is brought, the first of the lamb dishes (they split it into two tonight) arrived — the belly.
This was a nicely cooked belly, but I waited for a few minutes before my wine arrived. Not good. Also no knife…was I supposed to cut this with a spoon? They then brought wine and knife…geez… And as I started working on the belly, I had to do some surgery as there were rough solid inedible chunks of cartilage that I had to pull out. Who butchered this thing? Too bad, because this was a nice dish.
When they can’t get the ingredients sorted, this is what worries me about a place like Corton. No quality control it seems, which is not good for a 2-Michelin restaurant. There is NO way this place is at par with Haerlin in Hamburg or Steirereck im Stadtpark in Vienna, or especially Maaemo in Oslo.
As I pondered this and drank more red wine to drown my sorrows, the next lamb course arrived.
Interesting and tasty morsel of lamb, but a little too small to really enjoy. The fried slice on the side was a nice touch but a little tasteless. It’s weird, they seem to rely on other flavours and not the main ingredients — and they then fail on the seasoning… Is this just a totally off night by the kitchen in the middle of this ugly storm outside? Sigh…
As we moved into the desserts I was despondent. The next three dessert courses went by like a blur, as I ordered some rather heavy and hefty drinks to go along with each of them. I was unhappy. I finally (at the urging of my tweeps) asked them to slow things down. Sommelier was totally on my side, but when I mentioned this to the floor manager he tried to blame me for not telling them.
So it’s my fault? I perhaps should have said something earlier, but it’s the customer’s fault? Why didn’t they listen to the confused sommelier when he noticed my courses were coming out in lighting record pace and how off synch he had become for my table? By now I was pretty pissed off. If my manager did that at my old restaurant I would have sacked him on the spot.
I’m gonna just put the 3 dessert courses into one picture, as I didn’t really care about them at this point. The bonne bouche (left, 7th course) was a nice cheese but the popcorn were soggy. The blood orange (centre, 8th) was nice and had the needed tang, and the hazlenut-centric dish (right, 9th) was so-so. I was just drinking whisky and grappa by this point, so pissed off at this experience I didn’t care what the desserts were.
I left after a double expresso with a very hefty bill — highest bill I’ve paid in years by myself in the US. And this was one of the worst tasting meals I’ve ever had, if not the worst. I left in the pouring rain still really pissed off, especially with that manager’s accusatory tone. Instead of trying to make things right, he pushed the blame on the customer. Very unprofessional. And this faux-Europe or Europe-lite tasting was just not even close to a 2-Michelin experience.
If ever I was to avoid places with Michelin stars, this is the experience that did it. Shockingly bad. Avoid, avoid, avoid.
Corton
239 West Broadway
New York, NY