Review: Grappa ’72

5 May 2024

Well, last night was an adventure. I decided not to press my luck and headed out of town early. And the weather sadly made a far turn as it was starting to rain, and was forecast to downpour all day. Great for hiking…

Made a few stops in Vermont before poking back into New York, and made a few more stops before I eventually made it back to Albany. Got to my dinky airport motel and tried to dry off. I was absolutely soaked.

Eventually I went to return my car and take a Lyft (no more Ubers after last night’s debacle) to my dinner destination, Grappa ’72. But it was absolute chaos at ALB as they were only allowing 1 car into the airport at a time due to construction. So the queue for cars to get into the airport took my driver almost 20 minutes…what a cluster…

By the time I got to the restaurant I almost needed its namesake. But I held off with some wine and looked over the menu and ordered. A nice relaxing night at the bar, with some chatty patrons and a friendly bartender. A good combination.

My starter was a rather large plate of fried calamari. It was okay, but it was a bit underseasoned, and the sauce had zero flavour whatsoever. But it was filling, so it did its job.

Veal chop was my main, and it was pretty good. Again, a little underseasoned, but worked well overall.

I couldn’t leave this place without some grappa, so I enjoyed some chatting with the bartender as they were closing up. One more, and I thanked him as my Lyft was getting near.

Not a bad close to this trip, but I needed this with the crazy work week that is approaching…

Grappa ’72
818 Central Avenue
Albany, New York

* Well, that crazy work week began at 4am (3am back home in Chicago), as a flood into my inbox beat my alarm clock. So was trying to draft and edit something on my phone as we boarded the flight, which was delayed once again (thank you, United!). I had to take a meeting in my Uber on the way home and then it got even crazier. Oh, I so needed being outside and hiking, even if I was completely soaked on Sunday…

Review: Barn Kitchen & Bar

4 May 2024

I had a pre-planned trip to the Berkshires, which almost got interrupted by work-related things that popped up. But I managed to get out on a flight to Albany, another delayed trip no thanks to the increasingly unreliable United. An overnight in an awful, loud motel and I was off to the Berkshires.

A very long day of hiking in great weather, I felt good. I eventually reached Williamstown on the far north-west corner of Massachusetts to call it for the evening. I then explored dining opportunities, and knowing how rideshare doesn’t really work well out here (I’ve read horror stories), I decided on something relatively close – in case they strand me.

My luck in the Berkshires has never been good. I remember a good meal at Nudel about 7 years ago that ended with a terrible twist that required the help of a fine officer at the Lenox Police Department. Let’s hope this evening has less drama!

I got an Uber to the Barn Kitchen & Bar, which is well rated in the city. Tucked inside The Williams Inn, it was semi-busy because of the Kentucky Derby. This region, adjacent to horseracing central across the New York border, is of course watching this. So that was part of the fun.

My starter was a plate of local asparagus. Not bad, but nothing special. Then the main course came, and it was huge.

This was a very sizeable fish & chips, and it was done quite well. I’ve not had a good fish & chips dish in ages, and this did its job. But it was big! I did manage to finish it.

I relaxed and Uber was being less cooperative, so I sipped at a nice local gin. After 10 minutes of waiting Uber said no cars available. I did this 3 more times. Nothing. Those nightmare stories I’ve heard about this area is ringing true. Ugh, I’m gonna have to leg it.

Despite being quite tipsy and walking around a lot of construction and blocked-off sidewalks, I somehow make it back to my motel and collapsed…

As nice as this evening was, I don’t think I want to risk visiting this part of Massachusetts again. It’s like bad luck follows me around this area…

Barn Kitchen & Bar
The Williams Inn
103 Spring Street
Williamstown, Massachusetts

Review: Sushi Sho

25 April 2024

My long and fun trip is finally coming to an end. The weather has been miserable, rainy non-stop since I arrived in Stockholm. Unfortunately I think some of it seeped into my phone as it acted all weird. It was already acting weird during the day when I stopped at Noema for that nice dairy cow steak lunch.

The afternoon I kept going, visiting a few places I wanted to see before heading back to the hotel to pack up. I was running on fumes at this point, as this has been an exhausting yet wonderful trip. Tonight it closes with dinner at Sushi Sho, the Michelin-starred omakase that’s become extremely popular.

Although it has a very Japanese feel, a good amount of the ingredients are local, which makes it even more interesting. As I was about to head off, I noticed my phone shut off. Oh goodness, this thing may be zapped. I don’t have a bucket of rice to try to save it, but a little tinkering got it back working.

I got to Sushi Sho and we had to wait until the previous seating finished. It’s a boom-boom operation, very little cushion between their seatings. I was there for the final, 9pm one, which hopefully makes it more relaxing. I got a space in the middle of the counter, got a beer and asked for a sake pairing.

I am going to write very little on this review because of the aforementioned water issue with my phone, for some reason my notes on this dinner got destroyed. So with my memory a little foggy now, I’m not going to risk writing something wrong. And sadly, you’ll also see many of the photos seem to not focus very well. My apologies.

We began with some delicious sashimi, then an aromatic chawanmushi.

The photo of the handroll was totally messed up, so here’s the daikon. As a daikon lover this was great.

A few dishes and we get into nigiri. The photo of the scallop was also unusable, sorry.

Then into the tuna series, including a supplement.

As you can see, the photos have gotten worse. But the food was fantastic. We had some interesting local fish like halibut and trout, as well as the traditional tuna. Every dish was fabulous. The sake pairing was okay, a little off-synch with the food, if that was my only criticism of this evening.

The rice was excellent, the seafood fabulous, very friendly crew. It’s not as fast as people make it out to be, it was paced quite well. Maybe the late 9pm seating made it more relaxing?

A nice final tipple and I thanked the crew and took the long stroll back to my hotel. I think this was the only 25 minutes of walking in Stockholm that was not raining, so I enjoyed that. What I will not enjoy is my 4am alarm in just a few hours!

This has been a wonderful trip, and I’m a little sad to be going home, but at least I get a long layover in Copenhagen to visit a few places and have lunch with a friend, so that will be a great way to close this trip.

Sushi Sho
Upplandsgatan 45
Stockholm, Sverige

Review: Noema

25 April 2024

The advertised snowstorm didn’t happen, I wish it did. Because my last full day on this trip was dealing with the endless drizzle. Stockholm was still beautiful, but it was wet. I was wet. And I was tired. Now on day 7 of this trip, I’ve clocked over 90km (56.5 miles) on foot, often hilly and icy terrain.

Luckily last night’s amazing dinner at Brutalisten is fluelling me all morning. But I need to sit down, and I need lunch.

So I sought out one last opportunity to get something that’s not easily found back home in the US — a nice, old dairy cow steak. I found a place called Noema that serves mjölkko from Brålanda for lunch, so I headed there. I had that amazing raw dairy cow meat last night at Brutalisten, I had to have more!

The lunch rush was just ending, so it was a relaxing time. Sipping on some wine, I ordered my food and chilled – and pondered heading back across the Atlantic tomorrow. Sigh…

The appearance of my steak cheered me up. This was a delicious piece of meat, wonderful texture, beautiful taste, cooked perfectly. After several “top” Chicago steakhouses absolutely screwed up my steaks (I didn’t name and shame them, which I now regret…) recently, I fully enjoyed this to the very last bite.

The frites were quite good, and the nice bowl of tomatoes added to the total lunch experience quite nicely. Such a fine lunch, and I got to rest my legs for a little.

I was full and happy, so one little tipple and coffee and I headed out, refreshed, for a little bit of final exploration of this city that I’ve grown to really love over the decades I’ve visited it.

Noema
Birger Jarlsgatan 64
Stockholm, Sverige

I’m Definitely Sold on the Philosophy (Review: Brutalisten)

24 April 2024

I was sad on leaving Estonia, as this short stay has really re-invigorated me. But alas, off to the airport for the very short flight to Stockholm. Sadly it appears I’m bringing bad weather with me to Sweden, and upon arrival our commuter train was cancelled, so had to wait for a rather full train into the centre.

I had a bit of a hike to my hotel, but the weather was holding. I dropped my bag and quickly ran off to explore parts of the city that I’ve targetted, taking advantage of the late sunsets here. After about 5 hours of hiking, I was exhausted. I cleaned up and headed out for my dinner at Brutalisten.

This is an interested restaurant that follows a manifesto for brutalist cooking, which basically is to use one ingredient only. I like this idea, as I’m often complaining about “over-cheffing” that masqued the excellence of the primary ingredient. So my friendly and knowledgeable server gave me the rundown of the menu, as well as the philosophy, and I pondered what I wanted to do.

And as I thought, I enjoyed a glass of wine from Skåne. Yes, Sweden is now producing excellent wines, many using the underrated solaris grape (like some of the tastiest Polish wines now). The orange wine I’m having is wonderful, and that got me in the mood for the big tasting menu. Plus I skipped lunch and hiked so much, I was hungry!

You know the night starts fun when they present one of these things. Call it whatever you like, they called it the electric daisy, I’ve usually used buzz button, but I do enjoy these things and they have a wonderful effect that’s hard to describe if you’ve never had one. My palate is tingly now!

This next set is a great example of brutalist cooking by their manifesto. Everything here is made from potato, with only salt and water as added ingredients. The broth was surprisingly delicious, earthy with the delicate flavours of the potato too often ruined by various cooking techniques.

Each of the morsels were delicious, as you really enjoy the natural flavours of the potato in each bite. If this is my introduction to brutalist cooking, I’m already sold. Those crisps are addictive! Puts potato chips/crisps to shame!

The next set was a tasting of vegetables, each a very unique taste.

The yellow peas stood out, as the entire morsel is made of course from that one ingredient, as they milled the peas to bake the bite. Very nice. The rapini is also quite delicious, including some toasted rapini seeds. And finally, a plain ol’ but very fresh radish, and it’s a treat to be able to nibble on the greens when it’s not in horrific shape.

So far an excellent introduction to brutalist cooking! Plus, the service has been impeccable, and the paired wines absolutely perfect. This becomes more important as we move into the next segment as we head to the sea.

Oh my this is a heck of a quartet, again bringing out the very best of one ingredient.

First of all, I finally get my scallop from the west coast of Norway! After that mess at 1877 in Bergen a few days earlier to start this trip, I finally get what I craved from that place! Fabulous, so sweet…

There’s some excellent lumpfish roe, delicious to eat without it being stupid salty (reminds me of another bad night that started this trip at Natura in Helsinki, where my blood sodium level probably quadrupled).

Today was apparently the first day of the mackerel season, so this was new…so good. They used some garum made last year from mackerel, and it was beautiful and added a complexity to this already delicious fish.

And finally, the mussels. This was insanely intense, so awesome the flavours I’m not sure I can eat mussels the same way again. Candidate for dish of the year.

Now was that good or was that good? And it keeps getting better.

I do wish I had the bread with the mussels as that mussel sauce was just insanely good. But the sourdough came with butter and cream, which was so nice, and fit the motif for the dish it came with…

Oh my goodness this dairy cow is so good… Amazing flavours, which just shows how mature, happy cows can taste, why the US gets it so wrong on limiting this type of cows for meats. Throw in some very intense flavours on the site, I can see why this is the dish that they have kept on the menu. “People will riot if we take this off,” said Chef Coen Dieleman, and I agreed! Wow, was that good.

Now we shift back to seafood with a tribute to skrei, the beautiful and delicious cod that’s in season.

Absolutely delicious in both preps, and I appreciate them serving different cuts of the fish with different preps, each demonstrating how fabulous this fish is, and how good this kitchen is.

Absolutely lovely.

Then back to meats with this final savoury course, where the lamb is the featured incredient.

Wow again, I love when lamb tastes like lamb. And this certainly does, and the cooking is absolutely fantastic. Incredible flavours and texture, this was a dream-like dish for a lamb lover.

And let’s not forget the alliums! This was a unique mixture of various plants from the family, which I adore, and they complement each other so well. Works wonders with the lamb as well!

Damn that was good, and I’m full! I want to keep eating tho! But now we have the dessert.

Made from forced rhubarbs, which is unique in how it grows. Lovely flavours all around, a fine and perfect way to end this evening.

I hung out a little to chat with the awesome crew as I sipped on some coffee and spirit before heading out. I thanked them and then noticed the light I looked at was changing at a specific pattern…

Wow, this light is actually timed according to French Revolution timekeeping! Imagine if time was decimalized… One last cool feature about this place as I headed out into the refreshing Stockholm night for a nice 15-minute stroll back to my hotel.

This will definitely be one of the dining experiences of 2024, no doubt. Some of the dishes may compete for the best dishes of the year too, that’s how good this was. I think it shows that I like when flavours shine, rather than have competing ones or using them to mask the supposedly primary ingredient. I like this philosophy.

But that clock light with the decimalised time…

DO NOT MISS THIS PLACE if you are in Stockholm! Fly here if you can!

Brutalisten
Regeringsgatan 71
Stockholm, Sverige

Review: 38

23 April 2024

A tiring day hiking through the unexpected late April snowstorm in Tallinn, but a fun one. The lunch at Siga la vaca helped me through the rest of the way back to my hotel, where sadly I had to deal with some trip logistics as this is my last night “home” on this whirlwind trip.

Got most of it done before I had to get ready to head out for dinner. Tonight’s destination is also in the Old Town, a place called 38. I had a nice stroll out there as the precipitation had finally ended, and got there just around the time of my booking.

It was a busy night, a combination of locals and visitors, which is always a good sign. A relaxed at my table and soon enjoyed a much-needed cocktail. My server was excellent in describing the offerings, and I’m still glad my Estonian is good enough to catch all of this – including the food descriptions. I decided on the tasting menu so that should be a fun one.

Not long after the opening items appeared, which worked well with my cocktail (which you can see on the side).

I love the whimsy of this display. The “lips” is a beet-based bite, which was the amuse. The “mushroom” is actually butter, one that is quite nice (and definitely not scary salty like at Natura in Helsinki). And pork terrine as well. All with the excellent housemade sourdough.

As I enjoyed a good portion of the bread service, the first course arrived.

This is a delicious local whitefish crudo, really helped on by the pear. Delicious combination, lovely texture in the fish too. An excellent start.

Then we have some smoked duck, which was absolutely scrumptious. The smoke brought out a beautiful quality of the meat, accented by the mirin and soy. Wonderful dish!

I have to say my server is also fabulous, so enthusiastic when describing the wines. This was followed by an excellent eggplant.

A unique combination of flavours, as the eggplant is miso-centric, but works terrific with the goat cheese. A really nice fusion plate here, something I don’t say often. So far this has been an excellent evening, from the service to the food. Clearly got a talented kitchen here, one of the best I’ve seen in this city.

And the last savoury dish proves it, as this venison is absolutely stunning. Amazing quality meat, cooked perfectly – definitely without that “liver-ish” taste that can often haunt miscooked game. Lovely pepper sauce, with some delicious beets to go along with the meat. So good. Could be one of the dishes of the year?

Oh I really enjoyed that! My server could see that as she described the excellent dessert wine she poured me. I was a little disappointed with the dessert in a weird way…

This passion fruit-flavoured dessert was delicious! With some white chocolate, and a fascinating kaffir lime and lemongrass ice cream, this was indeed delicious. But what was “disappointing” then? I had seen the ala carte menu, and one of the starters they had was foie gras. And just to show you how much I love the way this place thinks, THEY LIST THE FOIE AGAIN AS DESSERT.

I wanted some foie!

But I was too full, alas, as this was an excellent dinner. I’m too old to have an emergency serving of foie; this isn’t my 43rd birthday at Joe Beef in Montreal, after all…

A little surprise, again whimsical like the opening items. Then I also had a little tipple and coffee to close this wonderful evening out. Wow, this was good! I am very impressed. I was so sad to hear my former Tallinn go-to place, Ö, closed during the pandemic. But now I think I’ve found the replacement for whenever I’m back “home” for a few days!

I thanked my awesome server and headed out, happy for this wonderful dinner but sad that it’s time to say goodbye to this city I love so dearly once again.

Heavily recommended! The next Tallinn restaurant that’s ready for a Michelin star, that’s for sure!

38
Olevimägi 9
Tallinn, Eesti

Review: Siga la Vaca

23 April 2024

Well, I did pay for it last night after that wonderful dinner at Rado, but more from the bit of cocktail excess at Whisper Sister… But it was so worth it, both parts of the evening!

Nevertheless I did decide to head out in the morning to see that the aforementioned snowstorm did in fact happen overnight and it was still snowing. Yes, this trip is indeed getting fun!

I ended up on a ridiculously long hike across town, taking me across several places where I used to live and work over the past three decades. Hilly hikes, trying not to slip to my death downhill, and just feeling my “hometown” again like it was second nature. After doing about 10km in the snow (adding to the nearly 20km I did yesterday), I needed a good lunch.

I was half-way across town in Kalamaja, an old neighbourhood that has become hipster central. I’ve not been out here this millennium, so I was blown away on the changes. Goodness. I drifted into a place called Siga la Vaca for a break.

This is a great play on the name of the Buenos Aires-based Siga la Vaca, which of course in Spanish means “Follow the Cow.” But in Estonian, “siga” is pig, so the logo of the local restaurant has a whimsical porcine addition that quietly pays homage to the city’s Hanseatic past (if you get the connection, kudos – if you don’t, think Bremen). Huge props to the people who came up with this concept!

My nice server almost chuckled when I made my order, and poured a very generous glass of red for me as I relaxed. Soon the lunch began as I descend into zombiedom.

Mmmm…brain… Yeah, some excellent fried cow brains, lovely and creamy. I love this when it’s done right, and this is done very right. I could have had more, but…

Yeah, grilled lamb heart. Now you see why my server chuckled at my order? Sadly this was overcooked so you didn’t get the unique flavours of the heart as much. Too bad.

A side of veggies to keep me from descending into pure zombieism, but this was a delicious lunch indeed. It was starting to fill up, but my server talked me into a tipple of scotch before I headed out. Again, excellent service. I thanked her and headed back into the snow for another 5km of trekking through the slush back towards my hotel.

A solid place for grilled foods and offal, especially if you like an Argentinian touch on them. A good find!

Siga la Vaca
Vabriku 6-1
Tallinn, Eesti

Review: Rado

22 April 2024

So far on this Nordic cycle it’s been a bit of a bust foodwise. The Helsinki stay was nice, especially with a touch of winter. However, the dinner at Natura didn’t quite hit the mark. Oh well. Now “home” to Estonia.

After an annoying boat ride (the “fast” boats now take 2 hours instead of the earlier 90 minutes…what, so people can drink more and buy more useless shit on-board?) I get into town, run out and my Bolt was waiting for me. Off to my hotel and soon off to meet a dear old friend for a night of music, food and drink, having not seen each other since my last trip in 2018.

The next morning I got up early and front-loaded my itinerary again, since now we’re hearing about an unexpectedly strong snowstorm heading into town later in the morning. So I was out of my hotel by 6am and by 11am I was exhausted, looking at the snow starting to fall. I met another dear old friend for a long lunch, but had to miss meeting another friend due to the weather and not wanting to delay his trip off to the islands. I then headed back to the hotel to get a little rest, having run on fumes since leaving Chicago a few days earlier.

I then headed out to dinner in the Old Town at a place called Rado. I’ve heard good stuff, and their daily-changing menus caught my eye. There always seems to be interesting stuff, including offal, so I was really looking forward to dinner. I need a good one, after the two failed dinners so far this trip.

I took a seat at the back of the cute restaurant space in a building I’ve walked past hundreds of times. Relaxed with a drink and looked over the chalkboard menu they brought me. Interesting stuff. I ordered and relaxed. So good to be able to do this in Estonian again… And soon it started.

Oh, this is the perfect fish fry! So delicious these smelts. Breaded and fried perfectly, these beauties were meatier than usual too. So good. A wonderful start! Is my trip turning around food-wise?

Then this nice lamb shank, the meat just about perfect. Soft but retaining wonderful texture, without it falling off the bone like some demented BBQ. And absolutely flavourful, where you can taste the lamb and not some misbred joke. So good.

What a wonderful little discovery this turned out to be! Plus the service was impeccable. I chilled and went with a dessert as this has been so darn good all night.

A nice tres leches with some rhubarb additions. The latter is in season, so I expect to see this a lot on this trip. Delicious, the tartness of the rhubarb plays so well with the sweetness of the cake. An excellent close!

I thanked my excellent server as I headed out into a nice cool evening, really having enjoyed an excellent evening here at Rado. It was such a fun night I decided to drop into one of the top cocktail bars in the city, Whisper Sister, for a nightcap. Well, that nightcap turned into 3. Then into way too many more, basically drinking the place until it closed.

I’m gonna pay for this evening, but it was absolutely fun. Finally this trip is getting good!

Rado is very much recommended if you are in Tallinn. Fabulous cooking with well-sourced ingredients, excellent service, a winning package!

Rado
Vene 7
Tallinn, Eesti

Review: Natura

20 April 2024

My Nordic adventure did not start off very well in Bergen, which nearly caused more issues when the “hi tech” hotel’s doors failed and locked all the patrons who went for a morning stroll out… Luckily I made my flight out to Helsinki, where I feel a little more at home, having visited so many times over the decades.

I’ve not been back since 2018, so it was nice just going around, although the weather was a little shaky. It was sleeting and snowing on and off, so I decided to shift my itinerary in town a little and front-load everything in case we get more snow overnight.

I was exhausted by the end of the day, and I’m glad I’m in a cute little hotel that’s nice and convenient, and near my dinner destination, Natura. I read about this place and found it intriguing, as I wanted a good but not over-the-top evening here in Helsinki.

It was a very busy night here, a clear difference from last night’s mess at 1877 in Bergen. My server was really nice and she ran me through the menu options, and I decided since I’m so close to my hotel I could do the longer of the tastings. I relaxed with a drink in hand, hoping for a good evening.

Soon the bread service arrived. I gasped when I took my first bite…oh my goodness, is this all salt? I’ve never tasted butter this salty in my life, and even the bread was salty. Yikes!

Lucky we got some potato cream with roe to cool it down. Not bad. Let’s hope that’s an anomaly! It was nice to see the dill, it’s a reminder that I’m “home” in the Baltics… Then some nice local whitefish.

The fish was good, but this was a case of throwing too much unnecessary gunk on what is otherwise a nice fresh ingredient. Why not just let the fish shine?

And at this point, I was having a lot of trouble understanding my new server, who seems to speak with an extremely heavy Italian accent – who does not appear to speak much Finnish. That’s one thing, but I can barely understand his English, and I don’t want to embarrass him by asking to switch to Italian… His description of the quartet of dishes that came out next got me more confused…

The lamb was okay, but again so salty. The herrings good, but too much other stuff once again. And the rest were weird… Again, I couldn’t understand what the server was saying (as the good original server was running around every other table), so it took a bit away from the experience.

Now this so-called “risotto” did not work at all. It feels like it should be called “oatmeal” instead, with a hodge-podge of berries and beets and other incongruent flavours. Again, I’m guessing and also looking at the printed menu of the ala carte items, as I cannot understand this server.

I see this night is not going as well as I thought. And just to show I’m not crazy, when the table next to me took a bite into the bread and butter, the guy winced and she coughed. Yeah, salt overdose…

Now this turbot wasn’t bad at all, probably the best dish of the night. Sadly it was a relatively tiny sliver, with a second charred out piece that look like it could have been left off. On the salty side, but edible. But at least I knew what I was eating as it was my original (the excellent one) server now back at my table.

What really shocked me was that a large percentage of the customers tonight are local, and they are also being served by that other server who speaks no Finnish with the impossible to understand English. Some of the customers seemed bemused by it. Is there such lack of workforce locally that this has become a problem in Helsinki? Goodness.

I was a little disappointed to get goose as a confit rather than unadulterated meat. And this was so absolutely salty that it was very difficult to eat. By this stage I have lost all interest in this dinner, and am glad the over-salted savouries are done with!

Approaching the third hour of dining, we get some local raw milk Loreley cheese from Otava. Okay, but again, my interest in food has already departed. I finished this with some struggle as we move into the dessert.

Luckily I love sea buckthorn, and this dessert focuses on it as a sorbet. It has such a strong flavour that eats into everything else, I love it. Perfect palate cleanser.

Now this next dish is a frozen yoghurt, which they say is their best-known dish. Interesting, that’s for sure. At least it’s not salty.

Now with the closing items I asked for a local tipple, so tried some local single malt.

And you know what? Just as a perfect sum up of this dining experience? Salty, salty, SALTY! Why are these chocolate-centric things absolutely so salty I needed to take a swig of water just to get it down?

So nearly 3 hours later, this evening was over. I walked outside into the flurry and wondered what happened. And realized I was so thirsty from all the salt I consumed tonight. I headed straight back to my hotel room and guzzed a litre of water. What a great night…

I think they have some good ideas, but the execution was a mess. Some of the ideas were a little too odd, some of it didn’t make best of the ingredients. Plus, when you have servers who cannot describe the food, you start off with a massive disadvantage. But overall, it was not good. Sigh…that’s 0 for 2 on this trip so far…

Natura
Iso Roobertinkatu 11
Helsinki, Suomi

When You’ve Waited Just a Little Too Long to Return… (Review #2: 1877)

19 April 2024

I had been planning to revisit Bergen, Norway since my previous visit in 2014. Never got around to it working out, but finally my chance came when I was planning this trip. For some reason, the SAS transatlantic fare was CHEAPER to add this extra leg. Fine!

Sadly it nearly went pear-shaped. After that excellent lunch at Mash, my Kastrup experience turned into a mess. Flight to Bergen was delayed, and even the crew seemed confused. Then it was moved across the airport, and when we ran almost across the huge terminal, they cancelled the flight. So another long run to the info desk across the airport. And folks, Terminal 3 in Kastrup is HUGE. Plus it’s a damn shopping mall, so you’re constantly dodging people shopping for cars and other unrealistic shit…

Eventually after a lot of drama and a lack of information, they put me on a later flight. Yet on the other side of the terminal. I got to Bergen exhausted, just for my hotel not to send me the info to check in. You see, it’s one of those “no front desk” places but their app didn’t work. So I had to waste a taxi ride from Bergen airport to another hotel – just so I can get my key.

UGH is right. So I need a fantastic meal, right? I’ve been waiting to return to 1877 for a decade since my amazing dinner there. However, something happened a few months ago that worried me. They wiped their social media, and posted weird stuff that’s more about design and decor, very little about food. I was worried but kept my booking.

My fears were confirmed when I arrived. The restaurant, which used to be bustling, was empty on a Friday night – a warm night when many people were out. Sigh…but let’s make the best of it. My cheerful and friendly server was great, so that kept me going. I decided to do the tasting menu. And it started with…

Bread and olives. Well, a good snack really, but I was saddened they had to warn me that the olives had pits in them… After a little bit, a cheesy snack.

Not bad, a good nibble. Then my heart sank when I saw the first major dish.

Well, it’s a “fish pudding” under this mess. It really was not good. The fishcake was really boring, clashing with this heavy sauce. The vegetables (supposedly castelfranco) added nothing, if another clashing element. Really a dish that makes me scratch my head…

It didn’t improve either with the celery dish next, as the texture was the big clash now with the seeds and roasted celery. Again, did nothing for me. What has happened to this place?

I shook my head internally when the main dish came out, pork neck. Now I love pork neck, don’t get me wrong, but when I am in the west coast of Norway, where the world’s best seafood is, why am I eating pork? Now this was done extremely well, and it was delicious, but it’s like eating a chorizo in Hokkaido or raw oysters in Delhi. It didn’t make sense.

If it wasn’t for the really nice server this night would have been totally crappy. Then a rather lame dessert, and I am done.

I chatted with my server for awhile, as she has a very interesting background. I thanked her and headed out, shaking my head. She did admit they had a concept change, which is sad for me as it turned a fabulous place into this mess. And yes, it’s empty on a Friday night.

Not a great start to this trip…

1877
Vetrlidsallmenningen 2
Bergen, Norge