When You’ve Waited Just a Little Too Long to Return… (Review #2: 1877)

19 April 2024

I had been planning to revisit Bergen, Norway since my previous visit in 2014. Never got around to it working out, but finally my chance came when I was planning this trip. For some reason, the SAS transatlantic fare was CHEAPER to add this extra leg. Fine!

Sadly it nearly went pear-shaped. After that excellent lunch at Mash, my Kastrup experience turned into a mess. Flight to Bergen was delayed, and even the crew seemed confused. Then it was moved across the airport, and when we ran almost across the huge terminal, they cancelled the flight. So another long run to the info desk across the airport. And folks, Terminal 3 in Kastrup is HUGE. Plus it’s a damn shopping mall, so you’re constantly dodging people shopping for cars and other unrealistic shit…

Eventually after a lot of drama and a lack of information, they put me on a later flight. Yet on the other side of the terminal. I got to Bergen exhausted, just for my hotel not to send me the info to check in. You see, it’s one of those “no front desk” places but their app didn’t work. So I had to waste a taxi ride from Bergen airport to another hotel – just so I can get my key.

UGH is right. So I need a fantastic meal, right? I’ve been waiting to return to 1877 for a decade since my amazing dinner there. However, something happened a few months ago that worried me. They wiped their social media, and posted weird stuff that’s more about design and decor, very little about food. I was worried but kept my booking.

My fears were confirmed when I arrived. The restaurant, which used to be bustling, was empty on a Friday night – a warm night when many people were out. Sigh…but let’s make the best of it. My cheerful and friendly server was great, so that kept me going. I decided to do the tasting menu. And it started with…

Bread and olives. Well, a good snack really, but I was saddened they had to warn me that the olives had pits in them… After a little bit, a cheesy snack.

Not bad, a good nibble. Then my heart sank when I saw the first major dish.

Well, it’s a “fish pudding” under this mess. It really was not good. The fishcake was really boring, clashing with this heavy sauce. The vegetables (supposedly castelfranco) added nothing, if another clashing element. Really a dish that makes me scratch my head…

It didn’t improve either with the celery dish next, as the texture was the big clash now with the seeds and roasted celery. Again, did nothing for me. What has happened to this place?

I shook my head internally when the main dish came out, pork neck. Now I love pork neck, don’t get me wrong, but when I am in the west coast of Norway, where the world’s best seafood is, why am I eating pork? Now this was done extremely well, and it was delicious, but it’s like eating a chorizo in Hokkaido or raw oysters in Delhi. It didn’t make sense.

If it wasn’t for the really nice server this night would have been totally crappy. Then a rather lame dessert, and I am done.

I chatted with my server for awhile, as she has a very interesting background. I thanked her and headed out, shaking my head. She did admit they had a concept change, which is sad for me as it turned a fabulous place into this mess. And yes, it’s empty on a Friday night.

Not a great start to this trip…

1877
Vetrlidsallmenningen 2
Bergen, Norge

Review: Kolonialen

12 June 2019

I had a rather busy Wednesday in Oslo, it being my only full day here in the Norwegian capital. Running around all over the city, I even managed to pay my respects to the great Fridtjof Nansen — the explorer who did so much to help refugees that earned him the Nobel Peace Prize. I had wanted to visit his grave since my trek up to Spitzbergen many years ago, and I finally managed that this early afternoon.

After a rather lame lunch at the Central Rail Station, I needed a wee break. Plus, I had to deal with various logistical issues for tomorrow’s departure, so that took the rest of the afternoon. I was looking forward to dinner tonight at Kolonialen, the new venture by sommelier-extraordinaire Pontus Dahlström.

The former Maaemo co-founder, with whom I always enjoyed chatting (especially about the Finno-Esto space), was sadly not in this day; I had wanted to at least say hello. But I relaxed and enjoyed some good beverages as I ordered. And not much later, my opening snack arrived.

Maaemo this isn’t! But don’t knock this, this simplicity is wonderful. Beautiful tin of Portuguese sardines, with that glorious oil that works wonder with the bread. This is something I love doing at home, and here it’s as enjoyable. A good start. Next up, some scallops.

Quite delicious. I know the scallops from the nearby Faroe Islands have really ruined me, but the west coast of Norway is pretty much the same waters, and these were beautifully sweet. Excellent, with tinges of salsify, apple and black garlic.

So far I am enjoying this dinner far more than last night at Galt, which was good but I think a bit too “over-chef’d” with what were excellent ingredients. Here, the ingredients rule, which is so refreshing to experience within the culinary radius of Copenhagen… Next up, veal tongue.

Oh my these are fabulous. I love when tongue is cooked so well that it retains its unique taste and also its texture without it being difficult to eat. This was done perfectly, such lovely flavours. I am very particular about my tongue, and this is one of the best I’ve had in years.

This is a wonderful surprise, and I’m glad Pontus has helped to create another gem in Oslo. It’s worth a Michelin for sure, but I suspect its founder has had more than enough of the BS that comes along with that accolade. But easily worth a detour, especially if you want to taste the fresh flavours of Norway — without that culinary detour through a heavy-handed, Copenhagen-blighted kitchen.

Kolonialen
Sofies gate 16
Oslo, Norge

* Later in the evening I had a nice stop at Torggata Botaniske, a cute little cocktail bar very close to the heart of Oslo not far from the famed Sentrum music venue. A nice way to close out my short Oslo trip.

Review: Galt

11 June 2019

Thanks to that good lunch from 15 East, it fuelled me all the way over the Atlantic. A short red-eye is never good, but got to Heathrow and was shocked at how quickly immigration is now thanks to the automated gates. Goodness, I can’t even count the hours I’ve spent waiting here over the decades in Terminal 3… Unfortunately the chaotic immigration in Oslo, to where I connected, slowed my entire afternoon down considerably.

I had a busy time in the Norwegian capital, as the long summer days allowed me to do some exploring before a late-ish dinner time. Tonight’s dinner is at one of the very few Michelin places I’ll be visiting on this trip, Galt. It’s one of the heralded, 1-star places in Oslo that has opened since my last visit here a few years back, and I was looking forward to seeing what they can come up with to impress me. I was skipping my usual Oslo stop, Maaemo, this time around, as I didn’t want to have too long of dinners…

I got to Galt as the place was already quite busy. I squeezed into my table and relaxed with a nice drink. I looked over the menu and since I was hungry, I asked for 2 additions to the set menu that they offered. I’ve not had any real food since that sushi lunch, so…

And we start with a selection of Norwegian oysters. Quite nice, though shucked a bit messily. Then a nice selection of local cured meats…

Tasty, but as I mentioned in my previous review my phone was stolen and I lost my notes on all my meals, so I’ll have to use my memory for all of these descriptions. The game salami was okay, but the coppa was the real winner. Then we have a pair of amuse to start the proper meal off…

I’m sorry I don’t remember the first, but it was a tasty crisp with something grated over it. But I do remember the tartar, which was the second, which was delicious. I do apologise for the poor memory, but as I had committed detailed notes I had let my brain wander…

Then soon the first course appeared, focused on kohlrabi.

It was not bad, the kept in the sour cream brought out something nice I remember.

At this point the noise coming from several adjacent tables were starting to annoy me. They seem to revel in making as much noise as they can when they push back on their chair to get up (to smoke, restroom, etc)…why??? Did you have parents who told you how boorish that is? Sigh… Well, next up, asparagus.

I distinctly remember telling myself that the horseradish here was too light and the dish perhaps a tad acidic. But not bad. Again, apologies for the patchy descriptions…

Next up is the langostine, and this I remember did not work at all. Every side item here felt acidic, and the langostine itself tasted a bit stringy and bland. I remember being a little disappointed here…

But the next course, the day’s fish. I remember as being absolutely fantastic. The quality of the fish was excellent, though the sauce was again rather unnecessarily acidic — and I just didn’t use it. But the fish, excellent.

The last savoury course was the lamb, which I also remember not working as well. It tasted a little bland. I wish I had the full description here, but I remember telling myself I wish I had more of that excellent fish. Anyway, not a bad series of dishes, but just not great.

The dessert was a nice juniper berry ice cream with that nice pool of salt caramel. Delicious end to it all. And I enjoyed a nice local calvados, recommended by my excellent server. A good night in general, albeit challenged by the annoying behaviour of some of the clientele…

Seriously, is it THAT difficult to pick up your chair, or at least to minimise the noise? Or is it a contest to see who can make the most noise with one’s chair?

Aside from something they can’t control (like Osloans acting boorishly), I think Galt has a lot of promise, as long as they don’t get too sucked into the Nordic acid disease. Let the fresh ingredients speak for themselves. It’s the middle of summer, no need to unnecessarily acidify things that are best left for the winter, bleaker seasons. But enjoyable enough, and it’s recommended.

Galt
Frognerveien 12
Oslo, Norge