Review: Baroo

28 December 2023

So far this West Coast trip has not been outstanding food-wise, which I am hoping will change tonight at Baroo. The highly-rated re-opening of this restaurant has been welcomed by the food community, and has become one of the hard tables to score in town. I lucked out and got a place on the counter for this Thursday evening, my final in Lalaland.

It almost began disastrously as Uber seems to have a completely different location for this restaurant, in the wrong part of town. I stopped the driver immediately and jumped out and cancelled. To Uber’s credit, they did eventually credit me for this error. It could have been worse as the Lyft address was also wrong, albeit a bit closer. I ended up just entering the raw address, hoping that Google Maps isn’t wrong too!

Alas, it was correct (and I did double check the restaurant’s website to make sure). I got there and definitely needed a drink, and they so nicely gave me time to enjoy it before my tasting menu began. This is what could make a dining experience start off bad, and they obviously know how to be hospitable, so that was appreciated.

Eventually I finished and the pairings began. I went with an all Korean pairing, and we start off with the “Tae” course that named “A bridge over field & paddy.”

An interesting combination. I have to say the seed puff was my favourite, as it had a complexity that you get with using harder-to-find ingredients. But overall the flavour profile was excellent. I really wish they explained the ingredients a little better as the menu is full of Korean terms that may not be easy to grasp for those who are not experts in Korean names for ingredients (like me).

But a good start. Next up is the “Yang” course that they named “A lotus flower in the mud” – or in this case, a beautiful scallop topped by wild rice puff and accentuated with the rare maessangi seaweed that really brought this dish to another level. But if they don’t describe this right, people won’t get it, which is too bad, because it is really good.

Next up is the “Saeng” course that proclaimes “Life begins” – which I imagine is the way this dish looks with the bright flowers. There is actually a beautiful piece of sole ready to be discovered, and it was delicious cooking in parae (another seaweed). Imaginative, and the taste lives up to the plating. So far this is turning into the excellent meal I had been looking for on this trip.

The paired drinks have been quite good also. It began with different makgeolli, but has moved into the clear rice wines (yakju/cheongju), and they are of excellent quality and pairs very well. Next up is the “Dae” dish, as the braised black cod is “Sometimes nomadic.”

Mmmmm, delicious. The fish was excellent, the soy really bringing the best of this already-tasty fish out even further. I hate to use the term umami because people have different interpretations of it, but this was very much umami-forward. Another winner. This is turning into one of the better meals of the year.

Now at this point we had a choice, to go with the pork or beef. I love kalbi, but I went with the pork collar instead for the “Wang” course, which they joked, “remain in between.” Was definitely a good choice, the pork delicious from the tasty cut. They also brought out the herby rice at the same time, so I guess we “Finally realize?” with the “Byung” dish.

The rice is absolutely fantastic as you break through the crust. Works so well with or without the protein, as the rice is again (I’m sorry) umami-rich. I utterly cannot understand the menu description, but it was delicious. And the pairing for this course was so good I needed a refill, an cheongju from Yangchon. Absolutely fabulous.

I was full but happy, but sad this meal was coming to a close as the “Jeol” dish made its apperance. “Wait for another with doubt” it teased…

The dessert comprises of ice cream from misugaru, a Korean wheat powder, accompanied by sorrel bingsu (shaved ice) and melon panna cotta. Delicious and refreshing, as it was rather warm inside this evening.

Wow, this was a good night! I’m glad I have one final excellent meal this year, as tomorrow night’s option (you’ll see soon) I’m starting to worry about. But my last night in LA has been great, and I headed out happy – even if the Lyft takes me to the wrong place.

Highly recommended! Amazing quality, considering it’s arguably the lowest-priced tasting menu west of the Rockies! But please, get the rideshare location fixed, and also translate your menu a little more please! Otherwise it’s nearly perfect!

Baroo
905 East 2nd Street #109
Los Angeles, California