Review #4: Marino

24 July 2019

Something really odd came up and I had to make a totally unplanned trip to Los Angeles. So in a matter of 48 hours I came up with a rather crazy itinerary to make the most of the unexpected trip, adding a few things on to the LA part that caused this all to happen. So I drove to BWI at 3am, and was sprinting through Detroit Airport at 7am to make my idiotic “legal” 37-minute Delta connection (I love that euphamism).

I had a busy day in LA as I dealt with some of what I needed to do, the emergency that brought me over. I also had some free time thanks to arriving so early, so made a few stops too. I checked into my motel (yeah, not much realistic options when you plan just days in advance during the middle of summer…) in the middle of LA. But one wonderful outcome to all this is that today is Wednesday, and I am in town for my dear friend Chef Sal Marino’s awesome Tomato Wednesday at Marino.

I’ve always immensely enjoy his cooking, as I think he’s one of the very best chefs in the world. But his Tomato Wednesday is just special, I’ve not had it in years, so I was so looking forward to it. His creativity with the wide selection of tomatoes (always several dozen different ones used, much of it self-grown!) that makes this a unique dining experience.

It was great to see my dear friend, and I can’t wait to start this evening off, and of course it starts again with gazpacho!

I always love his gazpacho, and this is made from some green zebra tomatoes. Fabulous, lovely stuff for a summer evening! Next up is a great simple way to showcase the diversity of tomatoes — bruschette.

Delicious, each of the different tomatoes bring out something a little different, so each bite is unique. If all bruschette were like this I’d happily eat more! Then what’s this, sushi?

Wow, made from caltran orange, green giant and Cherokee purple tomatoes, this is fabulous! The sushi rice was done perfectly, better than most sushi-ya in the US that’s for sure. So good, could eat this all day in lieu of fish! But we must move to seafood, and that came next…

Oh my these scallops were so good…working so well with the green zebras once again, the tomato water adding the perfect touch. This prep really accentuates the sweetness of the Hokkaido scallops. Amazing…

Next up is a fun dish of tuna carpaccio with pineapple tomato slices. I actually used it like a taco with the big-eye tartar, a wonderful combination. I love how Chef gets the best out of each different type of tomato! Then a bit of a surprise, octopus in mole!

Very interesting how he did this with those black tomatoes, a lovely bite in the mole. Excellent octopus as you’d imagine, perfectly cooked to that balance of texture without chewiness. Another top dish, as always!

So far things are going well, and the restaurant is quite busy for this Tomato Wednesday — the word has continued to spread! I’m so glad I got a chance to drop in for this feast! Next up, halibut.

Done very well, graced by some San Marzano and crutons. Lovely fish, despite halibut not being one of my favourites, this was quite nice. Then another fish, yellowtail.

This was just spectacular, so good… The crusting was just perfect, as well as the sauce made from the black trifele tomato (he brought one out to show me). So good… But now we move into the much-anticipated pasta segment…

First off is fettuccine with Maine lobster in a sauce made from a mix of the heirlooms. Fabulous, cooked perfectly as usual, and very generous amount of lobster meat. Just fabulous. I’m so spoiled here… Next up, caramelle.

Ooh, this was so good, filled plump with burrata and mozzarella. The sauce is made from an assortment of cherry tomatoes, working wonderfully with the caramelle. Oh I am definitely spoiled…

By the way the wines have been excellent tonight, but I think I was so focused on the tomatoes I didn’t take much notes…but it’s fabulous as usual! Then a little side-note of a tempura zucchini flower.

A nice little break, knowing that the main course is coming. And indeed, some lovely Wagyu…

The meat is as good as usual, the Fra Diavolo sauce adding a bit of a nice kick to the extremely tender meat. What a wonderful way to end things! Wow, that was a tomato feast!

I shifted to the bar to relax and of course, Chef brings out my now-usual dessert, a pizza…

And it’s full of awesome tomatoes! The perfect dessert! What an awesome evening!

Unfortunately things went downhill rather fast in a shockingly sad moment… I was having a drink at the bar when some patrons on their way out made a very loud racist joke — then saw me, and said “no offence meant”… WTF? I was livid. That just ruined the otherwise fabulous evening.

A sad ending, but that’s sadly the state of this country — even in Los Angeles. Sigh… But at least we have this wonderful food to get us through the despondency! Again, a fabulous tomato feast, a treat no Angelinos (or any food lover) should pass up! Get there before the season ends!

Chef Marino is a genius, proven once again…

Marino
6001 Melrose Avenue
Los Angeles, California