Review: Bruneau

16 December 2017

I got up feeling ropey, probably not helped by all the idiocy that was yesterday. The dinner at Sea Grill certainly didn’t help. And it was pissing down outside… I spent some time visiting the Cathedral of St Michael & Gudula, which for some reason had ridiculously kitchy and ugly nativity scenes BLOCKING centuries old relics and artwork that people wanted to see. I ended up being on the recieving end of complaints from an irate French tourist about how the crap is covering up the art — she thought I was a church employee…

Now when French tourists are complaining…

I left the church shaking my head, more frustrated about this disfunctional city in a disfunctional country. Many of the other sights I had less interest in, all keeping mind that so much of Brussels is built on atrocities committed by those under the greed of Leopold II…

Oh well, enough pontificating. I wandered around more and eventually headed to lunch. Today my destination is the venerable Bruneau, the most classic of all Brussels eateries. Chef Jean-Pierre Bruneau, who opened the restaurant in 1975, has seen the dining world change beyond his wildest dreams (or nightmares) over the decades. He got his Michelin star here in 1977, and got his 3rd star in 1988. Then it’s gone down, losing one star in 2004 and the second in 2010. As of the end of 2017, it remained a 1-Michelin restaurant, and some of the reviews I read online were not very pleasant…

It’s old school in many ways. I got there and was first to be seated. However it filled up pretty quickly, all with locals. Service was smooth, unlike last night’s disaster. I ordered and relaxed with a glass of wine. Then Chef Bruneau came out to say hello, and it was an honour to shake the old master’s hand. He seemed pretty relaxed.

I enjoyed sipping on my wine when the first amuse bouche arrived, which was worrisome…

These “waffles” are supposed to be ham and cheese? Where’s the ham? Hmmm. I’m starting to worry and remembering some of the reviews I’ve read about the place recently… Then the next set of amuse was somewhat calming…

Not a bad set, which included a cod fritter, duck mousse and a mushroom brûlée. Again, pretty ordinary stuff, but at least the flavours came out okay. Let’s see what comes with the items I ordered…

The starter was the smoked fish mosaic, which featured jellied smoked eel and salmon. This was actually quite delicious, the jelly working perfectly between the two distinct smoked items. I wish the horseradish was a bit stronger, but overall a good dish. Then after a little break, and more wine, we get the main.

Oh my, this was a proper civet de lièvre, something I’ve not had in ages. Jugged hare is an acquired taste for many, but I enjoy it…even if it upsets people. Hey, I’m a bunny lover too, but again, as I’ve said enough times, I compartmentalise. But this was delicious and rich, classic cuisine done very well. Bloody good…and yes, that was me being punny.

I am far happier today for lunch than last night’s mess. This is old school in its most old school, but frankly it works. Then the dessert appeared, and I smiled…

As a non-dessert person, I loved this. A very rich dark chocolate cake, not too sweet, just perfect. Again, old school done perfectly good. A really nice lunch!

Frankly the fact this lunch cost about a quarter of last night’s dinner says plenty. Excellent efficient service, solid classic cooking, what more can you want? I thanked the staff and headed out pretty satisfied. Pissing down outside, which brought me back to reality that I’m in bloody Brussels…

Bruneau
Broustinlaan-Avenue Broustin 73-75
Brussel-Bruxelles, België-Belgique

* I didn’t find out until way after this meal that Chef Bruneau was calling it a day and closing up this January…sad, but probably expected. I’m glad to have visited this legendary venue and being able to thank the master personally. I think this quote from Bruneau sums everything up well: “c’est une question d’habitude. Il y a des gens qui se lèvent le matin en étant déjà fatigués. Dans la génération actuelle, les gens veulent en faire le moins possible. Je ne sais pas après quoi les gens courent.”