Review #2: Harutaka

9 November 2017

After a short and good stay in Lalaland, including that wonderful dinner at Marino and catching up with some good friends, I hopped on the long flight to Tokyo. Not the smoothest rides, but it’s a joy when you land at Haneda and can get from plane to your hotel room (thanks to a well-timed Monorail) in less than an hour…

For dinner I returned to Harutaka nearly 2 years to the day of my previous visit, although they have moved locations since. I wondered last time why they “lost” their 2 Michelin stars, but it turned out it was due to them closing for the move. However, they have only been given 1 star since their re-opening.

I arrived at the new location and the decor is very similar, if not identical. A busy dinner, unlike last time when I was the only customer during a relatively early hour. This time I couldn’t get a space until 2130, which was a bit late but not bad considering I just arrived. His apprentices welcomed me back, remembering me — and Chef Harutaka Takahashi did too, when I mentioned something he served me before (you guessed it, the smoked katsuo).

Even before my sake appeared, the procession of dishes began.

Some tasty local broccoli to start, then followed by kamasu (barracuda).

Mmm, tasty, the garlic worked very well here. Then some shirako.

Mmm, very nice and creamy. Then some tako (octopus).

Good, although I’m one of the odd ones that like them more chewy… Then a nice pair of lightly grilled fish.

The hirame (flounder) was nice but the kue (longtooth grouper) was really a nice treat. It’s one of the more celebrated fish that’s harder to find. Nice. Then amadai (red tilefish).

Later I found out amadei is everywhere as it’s in season, but it’s delicious. Rich flesh worked well in the tasty broth. Then we have awabi (abalone).

Good, though I do like mine a little chewier. I’m sure many others would lustily enjoy this extremely tender version. A nice wee liver sauce too. Then the next item made me smile.

Not katsuo, but this is smoked sawara (spanish mackerel). Honestly not as good as the katsuo from last time, but good. Chef now remembers me… Then the last pre-sushi item is one of my favourites, shishamo (smelt).

Nice, but I’m old school and like the whole thing, head and tail. But really nice, and works so good with sake… Talking about that, a good omakase selection that worked nicely with the entire dinner. We shift into sushi as Chef gets to work. First up, sumi-ika (cuttlefish).

Hmmm…is it the post-flight dehydration or is this rice ridiculously salty? All I seem to taste is the rice here on this one… Next up, kasugo (young bream).

Good, but again the rice is overpowering everything — and not in a good way. Not a vinegary thing, but a salinity thing. Weird, maybe it is the post-flight thing, because no one else seems to be reacting to it. I may have to note this in the future, to not go to a good sushi-ya post-long-haul flight… We shift into the tunas now…

The lean was nice, but now I’m starting to wonder because the rice is even overwhelming the light shoyu Chef’s brushing onto the fish.

The chu-toro was nice, but still the rice is distracting. I’ve started to quietly swallow the rice and separate it from the fish in my mouth…not ideal for sushi enjoyment, but it’s necessary today. Then the o-toro.

Good, letting it melt in my mouth. Then the expected kohada (gizzard shad).

Now you know the rice is a bit strong when it overpowers oily dark fish like this. Maybe it’s not the trip after all? I dunno, at this point I cannot make conclusions. I just need to do what I need to enjoy the rest of the night — meaning stealthily consume all the rice before the fish (all hidden, inside my mouth, that is…).

Then some excellent ikura, which helped to confirm that the rice was indeed on the salty side, as the salinity is different with the fresh ikura (not the horrible, oversalted stuff you get elsewhere) and the rice was dominating this too. Hmmm… The odd thing was last time I was here I praised the rice, calling it distinct and not overpowering. I’m confused myself…

Next up is buri (yellowtail), which was delicious. But this rice thing is just confusing me, and making me drink far more than I usually do… Then amaebi (prawn) next…

Good stuff, followed by kobashira (clam adductor muscle)…

Nice, I always like when there’s more shellfish. Then we re-visit the amadai.

This worked well as sushi too, nice and seasonal. Then the first of the uni.

Nice and creamy, but again the rice is bothering me as this is one that’s hard to separate. We approach the end with unagi…

Good, but again, the rice’s salinity is noticeably cutting through even the eel sauce. I’m too perplexed whether this was a rice issue or a post-flight issue so I’ll quit talking about it at this point. It’s messed my head up…and sadly, kind of messed this dinner.

An odd shift here to shima-aji (horse mackerel) in a quick side-step to a lighter fish. Felt out of place a little, but was nice. Then one of my favourites, akagai (ark shell).

I love these things, as you really cannot get them (and feel confident about them) in the US. Lovely, I love the flavour and texture of these things. And then the 2nd uni…

Nice final piece, and then we got the tamago.

I was full, and didn’t request more. It was late, although my hotel is a nice stroll from here only. But really it’s this rice salinity (or perceived salinity?) issue that bothered me. Plus, when my bill came, I noticed how much more expensive this place has suddenly become. And it’s hard to justify paying so much when you’re not enjoying the meal as much as one should. Perhaps I expected too much after last time. Perhaps it’s the post-flight dehydration/salt balance/taste bud issues, but the rice was just such a distraction. Perhaps it’s a combination of saltier-than-usual rice and my own post-flight issues. Who knows…

I thanked the staff and Chef and headed into a breezy Ginza night, a little disappointed. If anything, I learned not to have delicate things like sushi after long flights. But also with so many good sushi-ya around in Tokyo, I cannot justify this price (the “Ginza tax” I guess) compared to what I know is out there. So sadly, I suppose Harutaka at this point may be a done twice and done for the future.

I still dream about that katsuo tho…

Harutaka [青空]
6F, Ginza Tokiden Building
8-3-1 Ginza, Chuo-ku
Tokyo, Japan