Review: Dallmayr

15 February 2018

My foot wasn’t feeling well after the very lengthy hikes yesterday in the ice and snow (yeah, I know, why…) but was good enough to move. I forced myself, and had a long and productive day — probably too much on foot tho, but still happy thinking about last night’s nice dinner at Schwarzreiter. A voluminous lunch, and a bit more punishment to my foot, and then finally time to think about dinner.

The weather turned and it was a wet mess, but nevertheless I headed to one of Munich’s food institutions — Dallmayr. I was early so wandered around the wonder that is the gourmet food shop…if I lived in Munich that would be a twice-a-week-visit… Then I headed upstairs after asking around where the entrance was to the proper restaurant upstairs…

A beautiful dining room is what I found, and thankfully I had a nice table. Quickly relaxed and when they asked about bubbly I happily asked for a martini instead. In a short time I had both menu and cocktail in hand…ahhh, now I can relax…

I was in a good mood so happily went with the tasting and the rather expensive pairing. Why not, right? Let’s see if their 2 Michelin stars turn out to be worthy. So far so good. Soon the amuse series began, first with a cabbage-centric plate.

AB1-cabbage

I secretly love cabbage, so this was a real treat. Wonderful quality vegetable, I can eat these things all day… The second item was a coconut and celeriac bite…

AB2-celeriac coconut

A bit hard to eat, but pretty good. Interesting combination. Then the last snack was spicy prawn…

AB3-prawn

Surprisingly good, the spice seemed inspired by a Latin American theme, worked well with the excellent crustacean. A nice trio to start! Then surprisingly the pairing began with a junmai from Nagano and we begin the menu with hamachi…

01-hamachi

A nice dish here, good quality yellowtail that achieved good balance with the other items including cucumber. Thank goodness it’s not an acidic, Copenhagen-y mess. So glad for German sensibility… Nice start. Then a good pour of a Grüner Veltliner and we have a gorgeous salmon dish.

02-salmon

I rarely praise salmon when I eat out (since I generally feel I can do better at home), but this was rather nice. Sourced from Ireland, the flesh was tender yet flavourful, and the sauce played a solid role here. Again, thanking my stars I’m not in Copenhagen and their “let’s out-sour each other” sauciers…

So far really nice. Solid, smooth service, not one hiccup. I happily stayed with German service and they happily obliged when I indicated that’s my preference. Very slick, not intrusive, and quick — and importantly, good wine pours and re-pours during gaps between courses. Then next up, the langostine.

03-langostine

I’m not crazy about the puffed rice, but the langostine was of extremely good quality. And more impressed, they actually did 2 wine top-ups here, once as I was still finishing the course, the second during the gap. Really impressed, justifying the high pairing price. Then with a Riesling from Mosel, we have poularde.

04-poularde

Well, it’s actually under all that foam, but was quite nice. Also had heart and liver, which was special. I was worried about the quince there, but it’s so nuanced it worked well. After 2 days in Copenhagen, I missed the concept of nuance…so good to have it here. Another good dish. And yet, another re-pour…so nice…

A wee break here so that re-pour was more than appreciated. Then I realised why as my server brought out a really nice red from Burgundy for the venison.

0b

Nice dish here, lovely jus. A total 180-degree difference from the awful venison at previously-reliable Kokkeriet in Copenhagen, the texture solid and balance perfect. Another solid dish in an excellent night of fine dining. I’m almost getting re-sold on the concept of a tasting menu… Then with a Swiss blend, we have quite a beautifully plated treat.

0a

Goose liver made into a rather nice flower. It’s an interesting transition into the desserts. Not exactly my cup of tea, but nice. Then with a refreshing white from Pfalz we move into the desserts effortlessly.

07-pumpkin

The first dessert is focused on the pumpkin, which delivered solid flavours but also balance. The sour from the mandarin meshed very well with the sweet from the pistachio cream. Nice!

I asked my server then about the last pairing and its sweetness, and they told me it’s not — and it wasn’t. A fantastic local dessert wine, not sweet yet concentrated, all with the coconut and apple delight that appeared…

08-coconut

Pretty nice, again the balance worked well, with the good pairing. This was an excellent dinner! But not over! They brought out some after-dinner treats focused on the banana and other wee goodies…

AD1a-set

A nice close! Wine finished, I felt I needed to enjoy this evening more, so I did. I asked for the local tipple list so went with it. Ordered a nice local firewater and coffee, and they brought this joy for me…

AD2-petits

Oh Germans know and love their chocolate, and who would skip chocolates from Dallmayr? A wonderful close, a second wee tipple, and I thanked the staff as I left very happy. What a nice dinner! Wee dear on the wallet, but it’s worth it when it was nearly flawless.

I headed into the rainy night for the S-Bahn and thought this night may have saved the tasting menu concept for me. I’m going to cut down significantly on tastings from now on, but when I have a good feel like for this one, I’ll go for it. An excellent evening, despite the rain.

Highly recommended!

Dallmayr
Dienerstraße 14-15
München, Deutschland

3 thoughts on “Review: Dallmayr

  1. Pingback: Enjoying Bavarian Food One Beer At a Time… | melhuang1972

  2. Pingback: Review: Entenstuben | melhuang1972

  3. Pingback: Dallmayr in Munich: A Gourmet Haven for Food and Coffee! • Local Feedback

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out /  Change )

Google photo

You are commenting using your Google account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s