Review: Copper Onion

12 September 2017

I had a very long first full day in Utah (and a bit of nearby Idaho and Wyoming), taking in the amazing scenery in this part of the country as I hopped into my rental and drove to see some beautiful scenery. From winding roads around the mountains to stunning waterfronts, it was a fantastic day. Hung out a little near Bear Lake, which is stunningly blue and beautiful. Eventually I winded my way back to SLC and tried to relax a little before dinner.

Dinner tonight is at Copper Onion, one of the vanguards of SLC dining that led the current revolution of excellent food in this really up-and-coming food town. The owner/chef is someone I’ve known for a long time since my NYC/Elettaria days, Ryan Lowder. Unfortunately due to some scheduling issues we didn’t get to catch up in person.

I got to Copper Onion on the busy evening and took a space at the bar; they could use the two-top for walk-ins. I usually always do this for restaurants. I relaxed with a cocktail and looked over the menu. I ordered and chilled out. Chatted a bit with the bartender but he was rather busy for the very busy restaurant — good to see it doing so well even having been around for so many years. Soon my first item arrived, the octopus.


Now I can see why people here like it, but for me a total miss. The texture is way, way too soft. But considering this isn’t prime octopus-eating territory, I can see why Chef would work this ingredient this way. Great for those who have had their first (and nearly last) octopus experience with an indedible piece of rubber at a cheap sushi joint, bad for those of us who love this creature and all its texture challenges.

And sadly, the plating was a little sloppy, no wiping of food stuck to the side of the plate… Busy place, but a little messy. And as I had another drink my side for my main course arrived…


The shishito worked almost like a snack anyway. I was not a fan of the cheesy addition but they did their job. Didn’t find a spicy one tho, even after the main course arrived.


I usually avoid US or Australian “wagyu” like the plague but this looked good, and knowing Chef he wouldn’t skimp on these things. Excellent beef and cooked perfectly, fabulous dish. Just melted in my mouth. Probably one of the best non-Japanese “wagyu” dishes I’ve had in years.

I decided to call it a night since it was so busy and I was tired from this long day, so I headed out…and just missed the validated parking limit. Ugh… Oh well. Not as good as last night, but again, SLC food is impressing! I can see why people are discovering this town for more than scenery and winter sports. This and Denver together are creating a huge oasis for food folks to explore between the coasts!

Copper Onion
111 East Broadway
Salt Lake City, Utah

*PS Stupid me I ended up at a “sushi” joint next to my hotel and drank too much sake…and I think a piece of fish I had (they weren’t a bar and needed food order to allow drinking…) made me ill, so…ugh…


1 thought on “Review: Copper Onion

  1. Pingback: Review: Log Haven | melhuang1972

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