Review: D.O.M.

17 July 2017

I was still glowing with the porcine goodness of lunch at A Casa do Porco, but we approach the final meal of my time here in São Paulo. And of course it was dedicated to D.O.M. It had to be done, and with all the accolades it should be quite a wonderful meal to end my short stay here in SP.

It was not a long walk, and mostly downhill, so I trekked my way there. A little early, so just hung out a little before they were ready. I headed in, seeing Chef Alex Atala still chilling. I was seated and they recommended a house cocktail, so I went with it.


A nice smoky wee cocktail and they vaguely described the dinner, and I was happy to go with the wine pairing. I asked for a bit of time to enjoy my drink before the procession started, and they were happy to do that. Glass was a little too cute tho, it kept rolling away… I chilled out for a bit, and saw Chef Atala head into the kitchen. This should be fun!

I need to apologise for the bad photos as it was dark as Hades in there, and I try to take shots in the dark without the glowing screen annoying other diners, so some didn’t come out well at all… Soon the snacks appeared, starting with a cachaça candy that wasn’t bad…

01-cachaça candy_edited

…then a pepper mouse that was also good, accompanied by a shot of sake inside a pepper… Interesting. So far so good, then the next set of snacks…


This was a hit-and-miss set. The oyster was was a boozy disaster, the watercress and shrimp was okay, the bottarga not bad, and the piracuru skin pretty nice. I have to say reading the menu after the fact showed the servers didn’t really know what the items are…and sadly, that’s just the start to this rapidly declining evening…

A pour of a nice white and the first larger item arrived, scampi.


Now for a 2-Michelin and supposed-to-be-one-of-the-best restaurants in the world, this prawn was a cry for help. I don’t think I’ve had a stringier prawn for a decade. It was borderline inedible, horrible quality. Did no one check? My goodness, this was just awful… And of course the servers had no idea what was with the poor creature that may have expired from advanced age…

Then the next course came, shockingly with the server DROPPING silverware on my table instead of placing them. Is this a 2-Michelin place or a hole-in-the-wall? Where did they find these servers?

08-scallop palm heart_edited

This scallop and palm heart dish wasn’t bad, though the herby essence was way too strong and ate way into the natural goodness of the ingredients. Careless stuff by the kitchen. Then some manioc bread that’s just that…


Next…then we revisit palm heart with this raviolo-like thing. Excellent, the dish of the night, lovely stuffing here.

10-palm raviolo

The service has not improved, but at least they’re not dropping silverware on my table anymore after I gave them dirty looks last time they did it… But as with the descriptions they seem to have an “just eat it” attitude when I kept asking for a description more than 3 words…


Then the next dish was the piracuru…it really didn’t work. The extremely acidic sauce just destroyed the fish. The pirarucu I had at Tordesilhas yesterday for lunch was far, far better… What in earth is this kitchen thinking? Then the next dish was shrimp and manioc.


I asked the server what was in this, and he said, “shrimp”… I asked for more details, in Portuguese, and he said he didn’t know and need to ask the kitchen. FFS… I ate this with no glee…really boring. Again, very poor seafood. Is he sourcing this stuff right? The server came back with a mild explanation that didn’t explain anything at all…ain’t that great? The service cannot function in English NOR Portuguese it seems…

13b-chicken okra_edited

Next up in a meal that I’ve lost interest in was a chicken and okra dish. It seems to have various “Asian” touches but this kitchen has absolutely no clue how it works… It’s like a bad dinner at a bad wannabe fusion Asian place… I just tossed down the wines as they came…

14-palm noodle

Then the next dish was another one I wrote down in my notes, “what were they thinking” — palm noodles. These were awful. Again, what I call “faux Asian” in another dish that I would have expected from a chef who has just helmed his first kitchen, not in one with so many accolades…

Ugh…this is basically a cluster. I wasn’t even asking questions anymore as it does no good. This is just going through the motions now. The final savoury is now up — finally…


And of course it’s overcooked, the duck… TA DA…am I surprised? No. One of the worst duck dishes I’ve had in years… I just want this to end, and then this…


Really, aligot? Really? A dish on a good day I find disgusting actually turned out quite good. It’s quite sad to say this was one of the best dishes of the night…on something I usually would not touch with a bargepole ala carte… Does that say it all?

17-curd mousse

Next up was curd mousse, which was quite meh…I’m just counting the numbers now…

18-banana lime ravioli_edited

Then a lime and banana “ravioli” dish in a jelly-like thing. Not bad, to be honest. This segment is turning far better than the savouries… And we finally finish with some grilled mango…


More like pulverised…and, of course, they bring out a faulty spoon. What a perfect end to this service disaster. Even at last night’s ridiculously bad Rodeio the service was not this pathetic. They were just lazy last night. Tonight is just incompetent, and whoever runs the FoH should be totally ashamed of this. Not even worthy of an Applebee’s…


This was just such a crappy evening it’s hard to believe how expensive it is — especially considering we’re in Brazil. This would be considered pricey in many European capitals, and it’s just obscene in a town where some make less than this a month. Sure, if the food and service was up to par, but this was not — not by a long shot. The food is mediocre, the service is piss poor. How they got 2 Michelin stars is beyond me, but it’s places like this that makes Michelin look bad. And it discredits the 50 Best Restaurants thing even more with its mutual stroke-fest attitude.

This was so utterly infuriating of an evening I didn’t even wait until my Cabify dropped me off a few minutes later before I sent a complaint email about the ridiculously bad service. My goodness, what the hell? They should all go to Tuju and learn — from the kitchen, and from the FoH there.

I thought today’s awesome lunch had saved São Paulo for me, but this just buries it. Ugh, what a waste of money and time…

Avoid this place like the PLAGUE. THE PLAGUE.

Rua Barão de Capanema 549, Jardins
São Paulo, Brasil


3 thoughts on “Review: D.O.M.

  1. Pingback: Review: Eleven Rio | melhuang1972

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