One Very, Very Crazy Day in Seoul…

27 November 2015

I somehow got up after that monstrous late-night snack…mouth was still burning though. In any case, had another busy day planned but also planned for some good eating.

I headed out in the cool morning for my destination back down in the Gangnam area and into a street full of restaurants that specialise in one thing — ganjang gejang. I will only eat this dish in Korea, as they know how to get clean crabs and do it right. It is such a treat, and instead of the more famous places on the same block I walked into a place called Ttungi-ne Pro Ganjang Gejang.

Was still empty at this early hour (just before 11am) and I sat down and ordered, and they seemed okay with it. None of the “order 2 portions” thing like yesterday, though I would have ordered two of this any day… Soon the banchan arrived and then the main dish…oh my…

crab - 02

This is just beautiful. The meat tasted brilliant, not overly salty like in many other places. Messy dish to eat with hands but that’s life… The roe and cream was just…amazing. With the legs and claws there’s meat to eat but also stuff to suck out. The shell? You mix some rice into it and…oh goodness, it is HEAVEN.

By the time I finished with this “small” portion — 2 whole medium crabs — I was smiling like anything. I could have eaten more, but so much raw crab won’t be good for the tummy and I had a long afternoon hiking up steep hills, so… I left the place happily, knowing I won’t get more of this for another few years…

It was a very good afternoon that drained me, with hikes up some long and steep hills to get some beautiful panoramic shots of the city. Excellent on a cool day, but I was sweaty and my coat just became a burden… I made it back to my hotel just to head out again to dinner.

I did some research on line and found a place I thought I may like, with the interesting name of Osiri Tto Osiri. Don’t ask me how I found it, but I had a good feeling. I headed south of the river again and got there.

Friendly staff but no pictured menu, so it was hard to do anything — but a friendly fellow diner did some quick translation, and I think I am okay… Soon the banchan arrived…

banchan

A nice selection. I especially liked the whole baby radish slighly pickled, sliced. Then the first of the fish arrived, the corvina. This was extremely hard to eat as it was bony, but it was tasty (as are all bony fish it seems). I ate it slowly as I kept swallowing small bones… Then another fish arrived.

fish

This mackerel was far easier to eat, thank goodness. It went down well, and I also finished the corvina — and more soju. Yeah, drinking soju tonight… I was still hungry and I decided to have something I’ve not had in years…

sannakji - 01

Yep, sannakji. They smiled when I ordered and then it came out quick as you can see. Man, this was an angry octopus…

It fought me as I ate it more than usual, curling up my chopstick, trying to crawl off the plate, etc. But it was tasty and fresh, and no, since I am writing about it I did not choke on it.

I finished the octopus as the fight left it by the last pieces… I decided to thank my translator as he was on the next table with his brother by buying them a round, but it ended up with me drinking with them for about another hour… The best of Korean hospitality comes with booze. That was fun, but I had to run…

I fought my way through the way overcrowded (and slow at times) subway across town and found a whisky bar I was told about, Sangsu-ri. I was impressed with the selection — and the price.

bar

I was just gonna have one drink until totally unexpectedly Epitaph by King Crimson came on the PA. Huh? Wow… Seems owner and many patrons are fans. Wow…this is fun. Then someone saw me nodding happily and put Starless on. This is now too fun. Then it went too far when the same person threw Lizard on… Now THIS has never been played in a bar before anywhere in the world, I suspect…

I ended up drinking quite a few doubles of various single malts until they were winding up. That was fun, but I was drunk and not sure how to get home as the subway was done for the night. For half an hour I tried to flag down a taxi to no success…goodness, reminds me of London… I was livid, but the only way to deal with it in Seoul?

To eat. More food. I ended up dropping into a place that was still open that I don’t remember the name of… I ended up with a feast, as you can see…

scallops

The fish was excellent, but the scallops were awesome… Then a little soup then…

oysters

The oysters were good but really the star was the beondegi — silkworm larvae. It’s really something hard to get outside of Korea. I prefer the field crickets in Manila to be honest when it comes to insects though. But somehow at that point I finished all the food, thanked the crew, stumbled out, found a cab that dropped me off too far from my hotel, and stumbled back to my bed…

Oh goodness this was a monumental bender…

Ttungi-ne Pro Ganjang Gejang [뚱이네프로간장게장]
22-20 Jamwon-dong, Seocho-gu

Osiri Tto Osiri [오시리또오시리]
7-20, Ogeum-ro 15-gil, Songpa-gu

Sangsu-ri [상수리]
B1, 86, Dongmak-ro, Mapo-gu
Seoul, South Korea

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4 thoughts on “One Very, Very Crazy Day in Seoul…

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